Frindsbury

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Frindsbury
Coordinates: 51.3999° N 0.5064° E
OS grid reference	TQ744697
Unitary authority	Medway
Ceremonial county	Kent
Region	South East
Constituent country	England
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Post town	ROCHESTER
Postcode district	ME2
Dial code	01634
Police	Kent
Fire	Kent
Ambulance	South East Coast
UK Parliament	Medway
European Parliament	South East England
List of places: UK • England • Kent

Frindsbury Church from Church Green, showing behind the chalk cliffs formed by quarrying. In the far distance is Chatham, showing how closely the Medway Towns are interlinked.

Frindsbury is a parish and Manor in Kent, on the opposite side of the River Medway to Rochester. At various times in its history, Frindsbury has been considered fully or partially part of the City of Rochester. Within the civil parish of Frindsbury Extra are the villages of Frindsbury, Wainscott, and Upnor. Frindsbury was also the name given to a Ward in the City of Rochester, that straddled the parishes of Frindsbury and Strood. Frindsbury started as a small agricultural community, grew into a significant industrial centre and declined into a dormitory suburb, each generation erasing the traces of the previous.

[edit] Topology

Frindsbury lies on the northwest bank of the Medway at its lowest bridging point. After a narrow but marshy coastal strip, the land rises steeply to plateau at about 100 ft. This was a sheet of chalk covered by brickearth covered with topsoil. Over the last two millennia, much of this was stripped away, or mined, so the contours have constantly changed. Through the centre of this ran a shallow valley carrying a stream draining the Hoo Peninsula behind, through Islingham to Whitewall creek where it entered the Medway. This water flow formed a river meander upstream and a buildup of alluvium pushing 1000 yds into the river. Though rarely more than 25 feet in height, the Frindsbury peninsula became the centre of many industries. At the Strood end the coastal marsh became 600 yds wide. There is evidence of Roman piling so they could build a road, Watling Street, from Strood Hill across the marsh to the Medway which they bridge. At that time Strood was part of Frindsbury. The impenetrable nature and the steepness of the hills here influenced the route of the railways.

Here we see how Strood the marshy place, relates to Frindsbury. The station, canal basin and all the wharves downstream of the Watermill were in Frindsbury. The steep slopes are caused by the chalk pits. Note also the undrained land between the railway, and Frindsbury Hill, and the lack of houses.

[edit] History

The word Frindsbury comes from Old English, freodesburh, meaning a stronghold held by a friend or ally. Recorded names of the parish include Freondesbrei (764), Freondesberia (c975), Frandesberie (1086), Fryndesbury (1610).^[1] In the Lathe of Aylesford, in the Hundred of Shamwell. The main church, All Saints', was built on the hill. There was a chapel of ease at Strood (St Nicholas'), where Watling Street left the firm ground to run over the marshes to the Medway bridge. Strood was promoted to a full parish in 1193 by Gilbert de Glanville, Bishop of Rochester. Upnor (St Philip and St James) became an independent parish in 1884, but reabsorbed in 1955. On 30th September 1894, the Local Government Board confirmed an order of Kent County Council, and Frindsbury civil parish was divided into Frindsbury Intra, and Frindsbury Extra. Intra joinded the minicipal borough of Rochester, while part of Frindsbury Extra joined Strood Rural District. The remaining part of Frindsbury Extra joined Rochester in 1934. ^[2]

[edit] Prehistory

The remains of a large elephant skeleton (palaeoloxodon antiquus) were excavated in 1911 at Upnor. In 1925, evidence of a palaeolithic flint works in the quarry to the east of All Saints' church was reported.^[3][4] The find included over 4000 stone tools dating from 100,000 BC, including hand axes, large flint flakes, core pieces, and quartzite hammer stones.

A Bronze Age sword was discovered at Upnor.

Michael Nightingale in 1953 argued that there was a Roman Villa at Frindsbury to produce food to supply the garrison at Durobrivae (Rochester). The foundations of the road leading from this villa to the bridge were discovered in 1819 at the canal dock. Further excavation by Tingley in 1888 produced several artifacts.^[3]

[edit] Middle Ages

In 764, King Offa of Mercia and Sigered of half Kent granted 20 sulungs of land at Aeslingham in Freodesbrei to Bishop Eardulf of Rochester. In 778, King Egbert gave more land to the Bishop. By the 10th century all of Frindsbury belonged to the Bishop of Rochester for the upkeep of his church. Domesday book records Frindsbury as having been 10 sulungs before 1066 and then (1086) 7. It supported 40 villagers and 9 slaves, a mill, a church, 31 ploughs, 40 acres of meadow and woodland for 5 pigs. Bishop Gundulf founded the Benedictine Priory of St Andrew, giving the land at Frindsbury to the priory though insisting they paid an exenium to him or his successors on St Andrews day. In 1256, the church of Frindsbury (and thus the income) was returned to the Bishop. There was a chapel dedicated to St Peter (1142) within the Manor of Islingham. Services were held 1330 to 1542 when they were discontinued. The building became an oast house.^[3]

[edit] The manor of Frindsbury

The current Manor House is a tall late Georgian building, but a survey of 1623 showed substantial buildings on that site. This is also referred to as Court Lodge Farm.^[4][3]

The late thirteenth tithe barn is 210 feet in length and was described as the 'undoubted queen of country barns'.

Frindsbury Church stood on a hill overlooking the Medway. The hill has been extensively quarried leaving the distinctive cliffs. To the left of the church is Church Green. Directly in front of it is Strood Pier and the entrance to the Strood basin. To the right is the Frindsbury Peninsula, and the Phoenix Wharf and Lower Curel's Yard.

[edit] The Church of All Saints

A composite building of Caen Stone and flint. Probably started 1074, it was rebuilt in 1127. There was more building in the 14th century and around 1407. During the Reformation, decorations were removed or painted over. In 1672, the bells were rehung. Wall paintings of St Lawrence, St Edmund of Canterbury, and St William of Perth were discovered in 1883. The church was extensively restored in 1884, with a large donation from a Mrs Murray, wife to Rev. George Edward Murray, son of a former bishop of Rochester.^[3]

[edit] Quarry House

Quarry House is first mentioned in 1575. Then there was an early 17th Century brick residence, which became a fashionable place for a visit, to observe the prospect. It was demolished in 1897 so that the chalk on which it stood could be extracted. Drawings of it were made before its destruction.

[edit] The Parsonage

The purpose of a mediaeval church was to raise revenue for the Bishop (the same man being the Rector of Frindsbury), and the lands needed to be managed. The Bishop knowing the income would appoint a clerk in Holy Orders say mass and minister to the congregation- he would become the vicar. The rector would have a Parsonage, which could be rented out if he didn't use it. There was a parsonage in Bill Street, and by 1591 it was occupied by the Watson Family. It was demolished at an unknown date.^[3]

[edit] Islingham Farm

This was a significant rural community of which there are few remains.^[4]

[edit] Industrial History

Frindsbury today is principally a dormitory suburb of Rochester with significant commercial activity on the Frindsbury Peninsula. The housing merges Frindsbury and Strood. The availability of such housing is to the part caused by the previous land usage. Up until 1811, most inhabitants worked in agriculture, but by 1831 90% worked in quarrying or manufacturing making this an industrial hot spot, well in advance of the rest of Kent. Wealth and poverty was thus dependent on the generosity of a handful of employers and the state of the national economy, boom and recession. As one industry abandoned the land it had despoiled, newer ones moved in and used the space, and finally this was turned over to housing. The streets bear the names of the previous elite.

[edit] Frindsbury Mills

The first recorded windmill was on a map of 1596. It was called the Quarry Mill and was 100 yds southeast of the church. Destroyed in 1850. It was a tripod - or post mill.

The next four Mills were all owned by Mr Kimmins (c1845 et seq.).

On Prospect Hill there were two mills. The first was called Manwaring Mill, or Little mill. It was a black tarred smock mill, and it drove four sets of stones. Next to it was Great Mill or Rose's Mill. It was the highest in Kent with forty foot by nine foot sweeps. Together the two mills produced 400 sacks of flour a week. Little Mill was struck by lightning and demolished in 1886. Great Mill was demolished in 1890.

Kimmin's Mill (1819-1843), was a smock mill with no base. The land became a brick field. A man was killed by its sweeps.

House Mill, also known as Kimmins Mill or Frindsbury Mill, stood on Frindsbury hill and was a black smock mill. It was demolished in 1931.

Close by in Strood on Broom Hill were two more mills, Field Mill and Killick's Mill.^[5]

[edit] Shipbuilding

[edit] Quarry House Yard

Greaves and Nickolson set up at the Quarry House yard in c.1745. The full list of ships built is unknown but two of the later ones were:^[3]

• 1785 HMS Meleager — 32 gun

• 1786 HMS Bellerophon — 74 gun—designed by Sir Thomas Slade. Laid down in 1783, she was launched on 6 October 1786 and commissioned on 19 July 1790. Nicknamed the Billy Ruffian. She destroyed the French flagship L'Orient at the Battle of the Nile. Fought at Trafalgar. On 15 July 1805 she received the surrender of Napoleon Bonaparte. She was renamed Captivity and served as a prison hulk off Sheerness. She was sold to breakers at Plymouth for £4030 and broken up in 1834.

Josiah and Thomas Brindley, nephews to Lord Nelson, leased the Quarry House yard. The first ship was launched from here in 1794. They expanded, built a new yard which became the entrance to the Thames and Medway Canal, and a third further down river.^[3]

• 1794 HMS Hazard — 16 gun
• 1794 HMS Conquest — 12 gun
• 1794 HMS Attack — 12 gun
• 1804 HMS Firm — 12 gun
• 1804 HMS Flamer — 12 gun
• 1805 HMS Pomone — 38 gun
• 1806 HMS Shannon — 38 gun — Launched the 5th May 1806, HMS Shannon, commanded by Captain Philip Broke, received the surrender of the USS Chesapeake in Boston Bay on 1st June 1813, after a fight of 11 minutes, both captains were killed.^[4]
• 1807 HMS Aboukir — 74 gun
• 1808 HMS Badger — 10 gun
• 1809 HMS Crane — 18 gun
• 1809 HMS Thracian — 18 gun
• 1810 HMS Cressey — 74 gun
• 1811 HMS Asia — 74 gun
• 1811 HMS Chatham transport
• 1813 HMS Orontes — 36 gun
• 1813 HMS Scamander — 36 gun
• 1813 HMS Slaney — 20 gun
• 1814 HMS Lee — 20 gun
• 1814 HMS Menai — 26 gun
• 1814 HMS Tamar — 26 gun

Wilson and Co

• 1794 H.M.S. Peterall- 16 gun
• 1796 H.M.S. Cyane- 18 gun
• 1797 H.M.S. Hasty- 12 gun
• 1797 H.M.S. Hecate- 12 gun

John Pelham

• 1807 H.M.S. Leonidas- 36 gun
• 1808 H.M.S. Wild Boar- 10 gun
• 1808 H.M.S. Bermuda- 10 gun
• 1808 H.M.S. Wild Boar- 10 gun
• 1809 H.M.S. Echo- 18 gun
• 1809 H.M.S. Sophie- 18 gun
• 1812 H.M.S. Conway- 20 gun
• 1812 H.M.S. Romney- 58 gun

John King of Upnor

• 1801 H.M.S. Reynard- 10 gun
• 1801 H.M.S. Ephira- 10 gun
• 1801 H.M.S. Helicon- 10 gun
• 1801 H.M.S. Cordelia- 10 gun
• 1801 H.M.S. Briseis- 10 gun
• 1809 H.M.S. Hecate- 18 gun
• 1809 H.M.S. Rifleman- 18 gun
• 1809 H.M.S. Poictiers- 74 gun
• 1810 H.M.S. Pigmy- 10 gun
• 1810 H.M.S. Pioneer- 12 gun
• 1810 H.M.S. Algerine- Cutter
• 1812 H.M.S. Heron- 18 gun
• 1812 H.M.S. Dispatch- 18 gun
• 1812 H.M.S. Mulgrave- 74 gun
• 1813 H.M.S. Euphrates- 36 gun
• 1814 H.M.S. Bann- 20 gun

[edit] Barge Building

Frindsbury was an important centre for building of Thames sailing barges, using the land vacated by the shipbuilders. Barges were needed for many reasons; on the Medway it was for cement, brick and lime.^[3][6]

Curel's

c1820 the lease of Quarry Yard (Curel's Lower Yard) passed to John Curel. George H. Curel took over the business around 1870. He expanded the yard in 1887 leasing the yard by Strood Basin (Curel's Upper Yard).

Here are some Frindsbury built barges grouped by their owners.

Phoenix Portland Cement Company, Frindsbury.

• Hawk 43 tons
• Cerf 58 tons
• Phoenix 51tons

William Tingey

• Robert Bladen 33 tons
• Eliza 41 tons

Formby Cement Company, Whitewall Creek, Frindsbury

• Sara 39 tons
• Pink 43 tons
• Queen 43 tons
• Neptune 40 tons
• Whitewall 37 tons
• Vauxhall 40 tons
• Eclipse 39 tons
• Margaret Louise 45 tons
• Ella Vicars 43 tons

Burham Brick, Lime and Cement Company

• James 42 tons
• John 40 tons
• Ann 40 tons
• Varnes 41 tons
• The Gun 44 tons
• William 41 tons

Peter Bros Ltd. Cement Works Burham

• John 38 tons
• William 39 tons
• Overcomer 44 tons
• Monkwood 46 tons
• Ninety Nine 57 tons

Trenchmann Weekes Company Halling

• John Tinworth 43 tons
• William and Sarah 41 tons
• George 45 tons
• Ambrose 40 tons
• Bella 35 tons
• Edward and William 40 tons
• Stratford 42 tons

West Kent Portland Cement Company (Margretts)

• Stanley Margretts 44 tons
• Cecil Margretts 46 tons
• Harold Margretts 45 tons

Imperial Portland Cement Company

• Gundulph 44 tons

John Blazey White, Gillingham

• Sarah 38 tons
• Flower of Kent 44 tons

Queenborough Cement Company

• Trent 42 tons

Solomon Brice and Sons, Rainham and Hoo

• Ada Mary 41 tons
• Alumina 60 tons
• Mosquito 40 tons
• William Bennet 42 tons

Eastwoods (Medway brickmakers)

• 1845 George and Eliza
• 1852 Frederick and Mary Ann
• 1857 Ann and Frances
• 1862 Arthur and Eliza
• 1872 Onward
• 1876 Atlanta
• 1879 Hawk
• 1881 Banff
• 1884 Plover
• 1886 Snipe

From 1870 to 1990 the Register of Shipping shows just over 100 Frindsbury Built Barges. Other families ran yards in Frindsbury, often they had other yards in Rochester.

• William Burgess Little
• James Little
• Gill Family, George Gill, of Cheetham Gill and Company. Canal shipyard.
• London and Rochester Barge Co, LRTC- Crescent Shipping- Canal Road, this yard was still operating in 2006, being used for ship repair.

[edit] Shooting the Bridge

To get under the Rochester Bridge, without losing headway, barges would approach at speed and drop their mast, using the winch at the bow, and when safely under, raise it again. To do this required extra crew, so called 'Hufflers', who were taken on at Whitewall creek. They waited offshore in their skiffs which were then tethered to the barge. They helped lower and raise the mast so the barge could shoot the bridge. They were let off at Janes Creek or Temple Creek in Strood.^[7]

[edit] Thames and Medway Canal

Originally the Thames and Medway Canal was to pass through a deep cutting. The Gravesend basin was built and a canal dug to Higham. Engineer Ralf Walker recommended that the cutting be abandoned and a tunnel dug instead. This commenced in April 1819, and the leader tunnel was completed in November 1820. It was 2.5 miles long and 7ft square. It was the first tunnel to be aligned using an astronomer's transit telescope. The completed tunnel was 8ft deep with 27ft headroom and 26ft 6in wide, to take a 94ft long, 60ton Thames Sailing Barge. It had a 5ft tow path its entire length. Spoil from the tunnel was used to infill the marshland between St Mary's Church Strood and the River Medway. It opened 4 October 1824.^[3][8]

The Frindsbury basin could handle vessels to 300 tons. A steam pump was installed here to keep the canal topped up. Allowing barges to pass was difficult, so a sheer sided shaft was dug in the centre and a passing place built. Commercially the venture was a failure, because:

• Tolls were high to recoup the cost
• Entry to the basins could only occur at high tides, making it quicker to sail the 47 miles round the Isle of Grain
• The effect of the railways^[3]

In 1845 the Thames and Medway Canal Company was renamed the Gravesend and Rochester Railway and Canal Company. The canal was narrowed to 16ft 6in and a single track railway built alongside it. It operated like this for 18 months. The tunnel was sold for 310,000 to the South Eastern Railway, who filled in the canal and laid a double track. The railway terminated at Strood with passenger taking a steamer or coaches to reach Rochester or Chatham.

The East Kent Railway with permission to run a line from Faversham to Chatham intended to connect with the South Eastern Railway at Strood. When negotiations failed, the East Kent, now called the London Chatham and Dover, linked with the Mid Kent Co. at Bromley, building a bridge over the Medway and taking their line via Sole Street. The South Eastern railway retaliated by building a parallel bridge and running a separate line into Chatham.^[8][9][10]

In January 2004 the tunnel was closed for twelve months and lined with concrete due to the risk of chalk falls. In 2007 it will provide part of the fast link from Chatham and North Kent, to Ebbsfleet International Station and London St Pancras.

[edit] Sand

The moulding sand from below Upnor church was used to make metal castings. It was of such a high quality that it was exported.^[3]

[edit] Brickfields

In 1847 there were 6 brickfields in Frindsbury. Three were at Manor Farm, two were at Whitewall Creek and one at Ten Gun Field Upnor. Top soil would be removed, the brickearth was removed and the topsoil replaced and farming continued or orchards were planted. Ten Gun Field was in operation in 1800 and produced around 2.5 million bricks annually over the period. Production peaked in 1844 when it produced 14 million, 1% of the national output.

The bricks were Yellow Stock bricks, the colour produced by adding up to 17% chalk to the clay. The brick were graded as Firsts, Seconds (used for facings), Thirds (used for internals), Roughs (used for hardcore) and Chuffs that were unusable.

Other later brickfields were at Barn Meadow (today's Sholden Road) which produced reds, Wickenden Brickyard by Cooling Road, and Frindsbury Brickyard owned by the West family (closed in 1931).

The business declined when the Fletton clay at Peterborough began to be exploited. This clay contained 5% tar oil, so required less fuel to fire. The Frindsbury brickyards reverted to agriculture or were used for new housing.^[3]

[edit] Cement Works

Portland Cement was first manufactured in 1825. It is a mixture of chalk and clay containing alumina and silica. It was manufactured in Swanscombe in 1845, and then in Frindsbury 1st May 1851, at the Frindsbury Linseed Oil Factory which became the Crown Cement Company. William Tingley opened the Frindsbury Cement Works in 1851; it was renamed the Quarry Works. He bought out the Crown Cement works in 1867 and his family effectively had control of all the local works. In 1901, the companies merged to form the APCM (Associated Portland Cement Manufacturers). By 1907 only the Crown and the Beaver were still operating. The Crown works, then called the Crown and Quarry, was the last to close in the 1960s.

There is a rich seam of chalk beneath Frindsbury Church. Blue clay came from the Hoo marshes. For forty years, over 1000 yards alongside Limehouse Reach on the Medway, there were 7 cement works with 152 kilns and 30 chimneys. They produced 4000 tons of cement a week employing 800 men. They were:

• Phoenix
• Globe
• Bridge
• Crown
• Quarry
• Beehive
• Beaver

The Formby Works (after 1858) at Whitewall Creek did not join the APCM. This produced 60 tons a week. As the chalk from Tower Hill declined, it was brought by barge from Halling. The Formby Works closed in 1911. There was another called The Frindsbury Lime Works, at Upnor run by Cole and Young.^[3]

[edit] Sport and Community

Frindsbury Cricket Club was founded in 1885 and in 2007 runs 7 teams ranging from under 11's to senior teams. Playing fields are located at Frogs Island with the frog being a major part of the club crest. The crest was designed in 2006. The club has a fully licenced bar, changing facilities, a large hall (also used for parties) and three artificial training nets.

[edit] Trivia

Frindsbury Clubs. In 1291 there was an altercation between the Monks of Rochester and Newark Priory in Strood as a result of a communication difficulty. The good folk of Frindsbury soundly beat up the monks who were trespassing. However the church sided with the monks, and on Whit Monday the Frindsbury lads had to do penance by walking to abbey and craving forgiveness carrying their clubs. This continued till none of the participants was alive. In the 1700s the boys of Frindsbury and Strood met up each May Day to have a faction fight, though it is unclear whether it was between themselves or against the boys from Rochester.^[3]

William Hogarth with Samuel Scott visited Rochester in May 1732. Ebenezer Forest wrote a journal of the five day trip containing the lines "we all proceeded merrily to Frendsbury". They examined the church then walked to Upnor where Hogarth made a drawing of the Castle. They then examined the Ten Gun Battery and the Birds Nest Battery before walking to Hoo.^[3]

In 1783 Samuel and Nathaniel Buck drew their prospect of Rochester from the top of All Saints Church Tower.

[edit] References

1. ^ Placenames of Kent Judith Glover 1976, 1982, 1992 Meresborough Books ISBN 978-0-905270-61-6
2. ^ Kelly's Directory of Rochester, Chatham and Gillingham, 1951, Kelly's Directories, 186 Strand, London W.C.2
3. ^ ^{a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p} Merrily to Frendsbury-A History of the Parish of Frindsbury. Derek Barnard. Private Pub. City of Rochester Society. post 1994.
4. ^ ^{a b c d} A History of Strood Rural District, Brian Matthews M.A. 1971. Published Strood Rural District Council.
5. ^ Windmills and Watermills, William ColesFinch, 1933, pub. C.W. Daniel, reprinted 1976, Arthur J. Cassell Ltd ISBN 978-0-903253-02-4
6. ^ Frank Wilmot Archive http://www.thamesbarge.org.uk/barges/Willmott/FWFrindsbury.html
7. ^ John K Austin, Yesterday's Medway from Rochester Bridge to Chatham Intra, 2006, Rainmore Books, ISBN 978-0-9553903-0-2
8. ^ ^{a b} 7) Vic Mitchell and Keith Smith, Southern Main Lines Dartford to Sittingbourne, 1994, Middleton Press, ISBN 978-1-873793-34-3
9. ^ 1909 Ordnance Survey Map Kent XIX 2
10. ^ 1863 Ordnance Survey Map Kent XIX 2