New Zealand wine

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New Zealand wine is largely produced in ten major wine growing regions spanning latitudes 36° to 45° South and extending 1,600 km (1,000 miles). They are, from north to south:

Northland Auckland Waikato/Bay of Plenty Gisborne Hawke's Bay

Wellington Nelson Marlborough Canterbury Central Otago

Contents 1 History 1.1 First Steps 1.2 Sauvignon Blanc Leads The Way 2 Climate and Soil 3 Industry Structure and Production Methods 4 Varieties, Styles and Directions 4.1 Red 4.2 White 5 Trends in production and export 6 Praise for and criticism of New Zealand wine 7 Statistics 8 See also 9 Sources

[edit] History

Wine making and vine growing go back to colonial times in New Zealand. Due to economic (the importance of the protein export industry), legislative (prohibition and temperance) and cultural factors (overwhelming predominance of beer and spirit drinking British immigration), wine was a marginal activity. Dalmatian immigrants at the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth century brought with them viticultural knowledge and set up the nascent NZ wine industry in West and North Auckland. Typically their vineyards produced sherry and port fortified and sweetened for the palates of New Zealanders of the time, and table wine for their own community.

The three factors that held back the development of the industry simultaneously underwent subtle but historic changes in the late 1960s and early 1970s. In 1973 Britain entered the European Economic Community, which required the ending of historic trade terms for New Zealand meat and dairy products. This led ultimately to a dramatic restructuring of the agricultural economy. But even before this restructuring was fully implemented, diversification away from tradition protein to products with potentially higher economic returns was explored. Vines, which produce best in low moisture and low soil fertility environments, were seen as suitable for areas that had previously been marginal pasture.

The end of the 1960s saw the end of the New Zealand institution of the "six o'clock swill", where pubs were open for only an hour after the end of the working day and closed all Sunday. The same legislative reform saw the introduction of BYO (bring your own) licences for restaurants, which were typically restricted to wine. This had a profound unexpected effect on New Zealanders' cultural approach to wine, although the popularity of wine only 20 years later could not have been anticipated at the time.

Finally the late 1960s and early 1970s noted the rise of the OE (Overseas Experience), where young New Zealanders travelled and lived and worked overseas, predominantly in Europe. The OE as a cultural phenomenon goes back before this time, but by the 1960s a distinctly Kiwi (New Zealand) identity had developed and the international passenger jet had democratised the experience, allowing large numbers of New Zealanders to experience first-hand the decidedly different wine-drinking cultures of Europe.

[edit] First Steps

In the 1970s, Montana in Marlborough started producing wines which were labelled by year of production (vintage) and grape variety (in the style of wine producers in Australia). The first production of a Sauvignon Blanc of great note appears to have occurred in 1977. Also produced in that year were superior quality wines of Muller Thurgau, Riesling and Pinotage.

The excitement created from these successes and from the early results of Cabernet Sauvignon from Auckland and Hawkes Bay launched the industry with ever increasing investment, leading to more hectares planted, rising land prices and greater local interest and pride. Such was the boom that over-planting occurred, particularly in the "wrong" varietals that fell out of fashion in the early 1980s.

In 1984 the then Labour Government paid growers to pull up vines to address a glut that was damaging the industry. Ironically many growers used the Government grant not to restrict planting, but to swap from less economic varieties (such as Müller Thurgau and other hybrids) to more fashionable varieties (Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc), using the old root stock. The glut was only temporary in any case, as boom times returned swiftly.

[edit] Sauvignon Blanc Leads The Way

New Zealand is home to what many wine critics consider the world’s best Sauvignon Blanc. Oz Clarke, a well known British wine critic wrote in the 1990s that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was "arguably the best in the world" (Rachman). Historically, Sauvignon Blanc has been used in many French regions in both AOC and Vin de Pays wine, some of which is often rather bland. The most famous had been France’s Sancerre. It is also the grape used to make Pouilly Fumé.

Following Robert Mondavi's lead in renaming Sauvignon Blanc Fumé Blanc (partially in reference to Pouilly Fumé and partially to denote the smokiness of the wine produced due to its aging in oak) there was a trend for oaked Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand during the late 1980s. However, the fashion for strong oaky overtones and also the name waned.

In the 1980s, wineries in New Zealand, especially in the Marlborough region, began producing outstanding, some critics said unforgettable, Sauvignon Blanc. "New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is like a child who inherits the best of both parents -- exotic aromas found in certain Sauvignon Blancs from the New World and the pungency and limy acidity of an Old World Sauvignon Blanc like Sancerre from the Loire Valley" (Oldman, p. 152). One critic said that drinking ones first New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was like having sex for the first time (Taber, p. 244). "No other region in the world can match Marlborough, the northeastern corner of New Zealand's South Island, which seems to be the best place in the world to grow Sauvignon Blanc grapes" (Taber, p. 244).

[edit] Climate and Soil

The wine regions in New Zealand stretch from latitudes 36°S in the north (Northland), to 45°S (Central Otago) in the south.

Wine regions are mostly located in free draining alluvial valleys (Hawke's Bay, Martinborough, Nelson, the Wairau and Awatere valleys of Marlborough, and Canterbury) with notable exceptions (Waiheke Island, Kawarau Gorge in Central Otago). The alluvial deposits are typically the local sandstone called greywacke, which makes up much of the mountainous spine of New Zealand. Sometimes the alluvial nature of the soil is important, as in Hawke's Bay where the deposits known as the Gimblett Gravels represent such quality characteristics that they are often mentioned on the wine label.

Another soil type is represented in Waipara, Canterbury. Here there are the Omihi Hills which are part of the Torlesse group of limestone deposits. Viticulturalists have planted Pinot Noir here due to French experience of the affinity between the grape type and the chalky soil on the Côte d'Or.

The climate in New Zealand is maritime, meaning that the sea moderates the weather producing cooler summers and milder winters than would be expected at similar latitudes in Europe and North America. Maritime climates tend also to demonstrate higher variability with cold snaps possible at any time of the year and warm periods even in the depth of winter. The climate is typically wetter, but wine regions have developed in rain shadows and in the east, on the opposite coast from the prevailing moisture-laden wind. The wine regions of New Zealand tend to experience cool nights even in the hottest of summers. The effect of consistently cool nights is to produce fruit which is nearly always high in acidity.

[edit] Industry Structure and Production Methods

There are a diversity of methods of production of New Zealand wine. The traditional concept of a vineyard, whereby grapes are grown on the land surrounding a central simply-owned or family-owned estate with its own discrete viticultural and wine making equipment and storage is only one model. While the European cooperative model (where district or AOC village wine-making takes place in a centralised production facility) is uncommon, contract growing of fruit for wine-makers has been a feature of the NZ industry since the start of the wine making boom in the 1970s.

Indeed a number of well known quality wine producers started out as contract growers. Alternately, many fledgling producers started out using solely contract fruit as their own vines matured into production. Some producers use contract fruit to supplement the range of varieties they market, even using fruit from other geographical regions. It is common to see, for example, an Auckland producer market a "Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc", or an Marlborough producer market a "Gisborne Chardonnay".

Contract growing is an example of the use of indigenous agri-industrial methods that pre-date the NZ wine industry. Another example of the adaptation of NZ methods toward the new industry was the universal use of stainless steel in wine making adapted from the norms and standards of the New Zealand dairy industry. There was an existing small scale industrial infrastructure ready for wine makers to economically employ. It should be remembered that while current wine making technology is almost universally sterile and hygenic world-wide, the natural antibiotic properties of alcohol production were more heavily relied upon in the 1970s when the NZ wine industry started.

This pervasive use of stainless steel almost certainly had a distinctive effect on both New Zealand wines styles and the domestic palate. The early wines which made a stir internationally were lauded for the intenstiy and purity of the fruit in the wine. Indeed the strength of flavour in the wine favoured bone dry styles despite intense acidity. While stainless steel did not produce the intensity of fruit, it allowed for its exploitation. Even today, NZ white wine tends toward drier end of the spectrum.

[edit] Varieties, Styles and Directions

[edit] Red

Both red and white wine are produced in New Zealand. Reds are typically made from either a blend of varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and much less often Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec) or pinot noir. Recently from Hawkes Bay there have been wines made from Syrah, either solely or blends, and even Tempranillo, Montepulciano and Sangiovese.

Early success in the 1980s in the North Island lead to red wine planting and production concentrating on Cabernet Sauvignon. Very often it was found that vegetal characteristics predominated as Cabernet Sauvignon struggled to ripen in New Zealand conditions. Mediocre wines were often accused of being "stalky". As viticulture improved with experience and more Merlot and other blending wines were employed, this fault was increasingly eliminated.

Typically "bordeaux blends" come from regions and sub-regions that are relatively hot and dry for New Zealand, such as Waiheke Island and Hawkes Bay. Wines that have made a name for Waiheke Island include Stonyridge Larose and Goldwater Estate. Wines that typify the best of Hawkes Bay include Te Mata Estate's Coleraine and Awatea, Esk Valley's The Terraces and Villa Maria's Reserve Merlot/Cabernets.

However, examples of bordeaux blends can be found as far south as Waipara, in Canterbury where Pegasus Bay's Maestro has demonstrated the recent decade's drift away from Cabernet Sauvignon predominant blends to Merlot predominant with the addition of Malbec.

As with white wine, no distinctive regional characteristics have developed in New Zealand, the principal differences between wines being determined by the vintage, vinyard and wine-maker's philosophy. New Zealand red wine tends to be forward and early maturing, fruit-driven and with restrained oak. The best examples have refined acids and tannins which allow moderate to long aging in the bottle.

For a discussion of New Zealand Pinot Noir see the varietal section.

[edit] White

In white wines Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc predominate in plantings and production. Typically Chardonnay planting predominate more the further north one goes, however it is planted and produced in Central Otago. There is no discernible difference in styles for Chardonnay between the New Zealand wine regions so far. Individual wine makers and the particular qualities of a vintage are more likely to determine factors such as malolactic fermentation or the use of oak for aging.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has been described by some as "alive with flavors of cut grass and fresh fruits", and others as "cat's pee on a gooseberry bush" (but not necessarily as a criticism).

Other white varietals commonly include (in no particular order) Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, and less commonly Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Müller-Thurgau and Viognier.

Riesling is produced predominantly in Martinborough and south. The same may be said with less forcefulness about Gewürztraminer (which is also planted extensively in Gisborne). Pinot Gris is being planted increasingly, especially in Martinborough and the South Island. Chenin Blanc was once more important, but the viticultural peculiarities of the variety, particularly its unpredictable cropping in New Zealand have lead to its disfavour. Milton Estate in Gisborne produces an example of this variety.

The market success of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and lately Pinot Noir mean that these varietals will dominate future planting.

Finally, mention needs to be made of the Methode Traditionelle sparkling wine produced in New Zealand. Marlborough produces a number of high quality sparkling wines, and has attracted both investment from Champagne producers (Deutz) and also champanois wine-makers (Daniel Le Brun).

[edit] Trends in production and export

The initial focus for the industry's export efforts was the United Kingdom. The late 1970s and early 1980s were not only pioneering times for production but also marketing and as with many New Zealand products, wine was only really taken seriously at home when it was noticed and praised overseas and in particular by British wine commentators and critics. For much of the history of New Zealand wine exportation the United Kingdom market, with its lack of indigenous production, great thirst and sophisticated wine pallet has been either the principal or only market. In the last decade the British market's overwhelming importance has eroded.

New Zealand's wine industry has become highly successful in the international market. To meet the increasing demand for its wines, the country's vineyard plantings have more than tripled in the ten years ending in 2005. Sales continue to increase. For example, "From 2004 to 2005, exports to the United States skyrocketed 81 percent to 1.45 million cases, more than two-thirds of which was Sauvignon Blanc, still the country's undisputed flagship wine."

[edit] Praise for and criticism of New Zealand wine

One critic described drinking Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc to "hearing Glenn Gould playing Bach’s Goldberg Variations". Cloudy Bay Vineyards has clearly set the world standard for Sauvignon Blanc and commands premium prices on the world market. Veuve Clicquot, the French Champagne producer, now owns a controlling interest in Cloudy Bay.

In 2006 Grove Mill Marborough Sauvignon Blanc won three trophies at the International Wine Challenge in London, the most prestigious award was for the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Continued acclaim for the wines of Marlborough will add to the ground work of such companies as Cloudy Bay Vineyards and Montana.

On the other hand, renowned wine critic Robert Parker in his Wines of the World is much less effusive in his praise. Whilst noting the success of New Zealand's Sauvignon Blanc and the enormous amount of hype associated with New Zealand's wine, the subject occupies but a couple of pages in a very large two volume book. Parker disparages most New Zealand red wine as 'atrociously vegetal', saying that it is 'unbelievable' that anyone could find something to praise in those offerings. He does, however, make more complimentary remarks about New Zealand Pinot Noir. New Zealand readers will also notice that the reference to a 'map' of New Zealand in the index actually refers to a map of Australia, further suggesting that Parker seemed uninterested in the subject.

[edit] Statistics

New Zealand wine production

Year	2004	2005
Productive vine area (hectares)	17,809	19,960
Total Production (millions of litres)	119.2	102.2

New Zealand wine production by grape variety (hectares)

Year	2003	2004	2005
Sauvignon Blanc	4,516	5,897	7,043
Chardonnay	3,515	3,617	3,731
Pinot Noir	2,624	3,239	3,623
Merlot	1,249	1,487	1,592
Riesling	653	666	806
Cabernet Sauvignon	741	687	678

[edit] See also

• Wine
• Globalization of wine
• Wine Institute of New Zealand
• Romeo Bragato
• Australian and New Zealand Wine Industry Journal

[edit] Sources

• New Zealand Wine
• Oldman, Mark. Oldman's Guide to Outsmarting Wine. NY: Penguin, 2004.
• Rachman, Gideon. The globe in a glass. The Economist (London), December 16, 1999.
• Sogg, Daniel. Standout Sauvignons. Wine Spectator, 2005 (November 10), 30(12), 108-111.
• Taber, George M. Judgment of Paris: California vs France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting that Revolutionized Wine. NY: Scribner, 2005.
• Regional wine details