Tobermore
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Tobermore (Irish An Tóbar Mór; meaning The Great Well) is a small village in County Londonderry, Northern Ireland, 2 and a half miles south of Maghera and five miles west from Magherafelt. It lies within the Magherafelt District Council area and forms the core part of Kilcronaghan Parish.
Tobermore has won the ’Best Kept Small Village’ award four times and most recently the 'Best Kept Large Village award in 1986. [1]
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[edit] Topography
Tobermore's topography is best detailed in the description of the Kilcronaghan Parish, whose borders are the same as that of Tobermore electoral ward. These borders take it up to the proximity of the nearby settlements of Draperstown, Desertmartin and Maghera.
[edit] Townlands
Kilcronaghan Parish contains 24 townlands; Ballinderry, Brackaghlislea, Calmore, Clooney, Cloughfin, Coolsaragh, Drumballyhagan, Drumballyhagan Clark, Drumcrow, Drumsamney, Duntibryan, Gortahurk, Gortamney, Granny, Keenaght, Killynumber, Killytoney, Moneyshanere, Mormeal, Moybeg Kirley, Moyesset, Tamnyaskey, Tobermore and Tullyroan. [2]
Many of these townlands may be closer to other settlements such as Draperstown, Desertmartin and Maghera than to Tobermore, however for election and parish reasons they are considered part of the Tobermore area. Some of the townlands that are mentioned are up to 4 miles away from Tobermore village such as Brackaghlislea, Coolsarragh and Gortahurk, a few are right besideto other towns like Draperstown.
The following townlands from the above list are within the local proximity of Tobermore village; Clooney, Moyesset, Tobermore, Calmore, Moneyshanere, Drumballyhagan, Duntribryan, Gortamney, Tullyroan, Ballinderry, Tamnyaskey, Killynumber, Killytoney and Cloughfin,
The small hamlets of Black Hill (in the townland of Duntribryan), Kilross (in the townland of Tamnyaskey) and Ballynahone (in the townlands of Clooney and Ballynahone More) are part of the greater Tobermore village area.
[edit] Hills
Kilcronaghan Parish lies on the descending slope of Slieve Gallion (Irish: Sliabhgallion). Its highest point is situated on the western side of the summit of Slieve Gallion and from it, the ground falls in a series of hills lying south and north. These become more and more broken and irregular as they approach the River Moyola. The highest point is at the altitude of 1091 feet above sea level. The lowest western extremity of the townland of Tobermore is 130 feet in altitude. [2]
[edit] Bogs
Nothing but oak is found in the small bog of Coolsarragh. The flow bog of Tullyroan and Gortahurk has all been cut. [2] Ballynahone Bog is the second largest lowland raised bog in Northern Ireland and has been declared a Special Area of Conservation. [3]
[edit] Ballynahone Bog [3]
In 1979 a producer of peat for horticulture opened a factory (with government aid) and leased two bogs in the townland of Ballynahone More. In 1987 there was an application for planning permission to extract peat by milling from Ballynahone, Mullagh and Knocnakielt. In 1988, despite objections raised against the scheme, the Department of the Environment in Northern Ireland granted Planning Permission to the company. In 1990 the Ulster Wildlife Trust sent out a Press release inviting members to "... take their last walk on an Ulster Bog - now that the fight to retain its ancient flora and fauna has been lost". This walk drew in people from the surrounding area, a public meeting was held and the Friends of the Ballynahone Bog (FBB) were launched.
In 1991 the peat development company dug 13 miles of drains on the southern half of Ballynahone Bog threatening the plants of the raised bog. In 1993 FBB started the process of declaring Ballynahone Bog a National Nature Reserve. After pressure from Professor David Bellamy and Friends of the Earth, planning permission was revoked and the government announced their intention of declaring the bog an Area of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI). In December of 1993, the peat company dammed the drains it had cut in the bog with about 1700 dams helping to maintain the height of the water table. In January 1995 Ballynahone Bog was declared an ASSI by the Environment and Heritage Service. FBB are now in partnership with the Ulster Wildlife Trust to try to reverse the damage done to the bog in order to encourage the revival of the specialized bog plants, such as the sundew, and the wildlife such as insects and birds which depend upon them.
[edit] Woods
The natural wood of the parish of Kilcronaghan consists of oak, ash, birch, alder, hazel and holly with thorns. A large oak called the Royal Oak grew near Calmore Castle in Tobermore. It is said to have so large that horsemen on horseback could not touch one another with their whips across it, even after it had been cut down. [2] From this vague description, it is conjectured that the Royal Oak was about 10 feet in diameter or 30 feet in circumference. [2] Another oak tree that once grew near Tobermore was so tall and straight that it was known as the "Fishing Rod". Tradition is that the whole of the townlands were once covered with magnificent oak trees. [2]
[edit] History
The village of Tobermore is named after the townland where it was founded, and has expanded well into the townland of Calmore (Irish for The Great Hazel Tree).
The name Tobermore is the Anglisation of the Irish: An Tóbar Mór, which means The Great Well. This well used to be situated at the bottom end of the village, but has long since dried up and been destroyed.
The present day village of Tobermore is built on top of an ancient settlement dating back to Druidic times. In the Irish Rebellion of 1641, Tobermore was razed to the ground by rebels. In 1651 at Drumbally Hill Fort (two miles south of Tobermore), Oliver Cromwell slaughtered 360 men. [4] To the east of Drumbally Hill there is a ridge, where ancient Pagan festivals were held. [4]
Fortwilliam House in Tobermore was built in 1795 by the Stevensons the Linen People, and takes its name from an ancient fort which stands to the rear of it. This ancient fort or Rath was named after King William III by Mr. Jackson the first proprietor of the area it lies on. [2]
[edit] Calmore Castle
There remains some vestiges of the ancient Calmore Castle, where tradition has it that it was built by Shane More O'Hagan, who was succeeded by his son William O'Hagan and then by Owen Roe O'Hagan.
Calmore Castle was "once a place of very considerable strength, which commanded the mountain passes, and the fords of the (River) Moyola" [5]. It was burned by the retreating army of King James II after the Siege of Derry in 1689, and was afterwards not repaired [4].
Legends state that the O'Hagans who resided in the castle dropped all of their gold down the great well and filled it in so that King James II couldn't get hold of it. [4]
A Plantation House was built in 1619 for William Rowley, and may have incorporated parts of Calmore Castle. William Rowley was the brother of John Rowley, former chief agent of the The Honourable The Irish Society, and later for the Drapers Company.
The last inhabitant was Henry Rowley in 1814. The Calmore Castle Plantation House no longer exists.
Nothing remains of the castle other than part of the wall which is 3 feet thick and is now part of a garage.
Calmore Castle was accompanied by a Royal Oak tree, used by Druids in their ancient ceremonies. There was also once a great Hazel tree, which Calmore is named after, that was used in pagan festivals. [4]
[edit] Kilcronaghan
Kilcronaghan is the local parish of Tobermore. There once stood an ancient church which according to tradition was founded by Saint Cronaugh, a bishop and son of a king of Munster. It was then called Kille Cronaughan and afterwards Kilcronoghan. It is likewise said that there had been a nunnery close to it. It was here that the famous Irish saint, Columba, got his earlier schooling under the skillful teaching of St Cronaugh. [2]
The newer parish church dated from 1816 and has a fine Norman niche dating from the earlier church. Other than the western gable and northern wall, nothing of the old church was incorporated into the new one. There was once a hanging stone at the church where all local villains met their demise, however it was built into the wall as it was seen as distasteful. Along with this was an underground tunnel leading from inside the church all the way over to the local Rectory, yet this tunnel has been filled in. There may be a crypt underneath the church. [2]
However, this church was abandoned sometime near the end of the 19th century and has fallen into a sad state. Many of the gravestones lie slanted and are covered in moss. In the middle of the church lies a grave with a shattered headstone to who appears to have been maybe the last Rector of the church. The now ruined Kilcronaghan Church has been superseded by a bigger church at the top of Main Street, Tobermore.
[edit] Tobermore and World War I
During World War I, 125 men from Tobermore served, with 27 being killed (see image to right). The most notable casualty being the death of 8-year old Bobbie Wisner, who was killed on 2 January 1915, and buried with full military honours (see image to right). Whilst too young to be a soldier in the British army, being a messenger for them instead.[citation needed]
[edit] Tobermore and the Troubles
Being in South Londonderry, Tobermore came under an area known by some as the Murder triangle. All of the people killed in the Tobermore area were Protestant [6]:
- Samuel Porter (30), killed 22 November 1972 by the IRA - Samuel was a member of the Ulster Defence Regiment, and was shot dead outside his home in Ballynahone whilst off-duty.[6]
- Noel Davis (22), killed 24 May 1975 by the INLA - Noel was a member of the Royal Ulster Constabulary. He was murdered by a booby trapped bomb in an abandoned car in Ballynahone, outside Tobermore.[6]
- Alexander Watters (62), killed 16 March 1977 - A civilian, Alexander was shot dead whilst cycling along the road between Tobermore and Draperstown. It is not known who killed him.[6]
[edit] Vanguard rally
Tobermore had also been used for the staging of an Ulster Vanguard rally, which was held in October 1972, where UUP deputy leader, John Taylor made a speech on the use of violence: "We should make it clear that force means death and fighting, and whoever gets in our way, whether republicans or those sent by the British government, there would be killings."[7]
[edit] Tobermore Orangeism
Every 7 years the 12th of July Orange Order parade for the region is held in Tobermore, the most recent being 2005[8] which attracted a very large crowd.
The 12th July 2005 in Tobermore also saw the participation of the Birmingham Sons of William LOL 1003 from Birmingham, Alabama [8].
The Canadian Orange Order Lodge; Tobermore Crown and Bible Defenders LOL 2391, Toronto, is named after its Northern Irish counterpart, and has on the top of their standard, a painting of the Church of Ireland (located at the top of Main Street).
[edit] Tobermore Bands
There used to be four bands in Tobermore: New Standard, Duke of York, Millrow FB and Blackhill FB. At present only one of these, Blackhill FB still exist, however a new band, Tobermore Loyal FB was founded prior to the 12th July 2006 parade to lead the 131 Lodge.((fact}}
[edit] Millrow F.B.
Millrow FB was a Blood and Thunder band, founded in the early 1970's. [9] It was at this time the Blood and Thunder style started to become popular with loyalist bands. Millrow FB soon became one of the biggest and most famous loyalist bands of the 70's and 80's. [9].
In 1973 they released an LP and are also featured on a CD titled "Ulsters greatest bands meet", featuring 3 other flute bands, where Millrow contributed more tunes to the CD than any of the other 3 bands did on their own. [10].
[edit] Population
[edit] Tobermore village
Tobermore is classified as a small village or hamlet. On Census day (29 April 2001) there were 578 people living in Tobermore. Of these:
- 19.9% were aged under 16 years and 20.6% were aged 60 and over
- 50.4% of the population were male and 49.7% were female
- 3.1% were from a Catholic background and 95.5% were from a Protestant background
- 3.0% of people aged 16-74 were unemployed, however
- 55.6% of residents have no qualifications and only 5.8% have a Degree level education or higher.
- 3.8% of residents where born outside of Northern Ireland
- 1.2% of residents are from an ethnic group other than white
[edit] Tobermore Ward
The Tobermore electoral ward covers an area around the village of Tobermore, which includes the hamlets of Ballynahone and Kilross, both of which to their inhabitants are considered part of Tobermore.
The population of the Tobermore Ward has increased by 15% from the 1991 Census figure of 1,802 to the 2001 Census figure of 2,076. [13]
- 51.2% of the population are Male and 48.8% of the population are Female
- 40% of the population are 17 years old or younger and 18.5% of the population are 60 years old or older
[edit] Demographic changes
Over the past decade Tobermore, like most other settlements in Northern Ireland has had a lot of housing development. There are plans for more developments in the village.[citation needed]
As well as the expansion of the town, Tobermore, since several Eastern European countries joined the EU, has had an influx of foreign immigrants and workers. The majority of these foreigners are Czech or Polish[citation needed]
[edit] Sport
[edit] Soccer
For more on Tobermore United F.C. click here.
Tobermore United F.C., alongside local rivals Moyola Park F.C., are the two biggest soccer teams from Magherafelt District, with both featuring in the Irish Football League, 1st Division.
Tobermore United F.C. is also the only football club in Northern Ireland that international superstar George Best ever played competitively for in February 1984.
Tobermore United F.C.'s ground, Fortwilliam Park, which was upgraded several seasons ago is one of the best football pitches in the region. As well being the yearly location for the Craig Memorial Cup final, Northern Ireland Under-19 matches can also be played here. It is also amongst the few grounds that can be used in the latter stages of the Irish Cup, allowing Tobermore United F.C. to enter the competition a round ahead of their First Division league rivals.
Along with this, the club has an extensive and highly popular youth development which has led to them being awarded official Football Development Centre (FDC) status by the IFA.
Tobermore Youth Football Academy have a large youth academy in place that support the local youth from the Mgherafelt district in developing youth soccer and have teams from the primary section age group to under 17 level and play in the local youth leagues and the Northern Ireland Boys Football Association cup.
- Desertmartin F.C., from the nearby village of Desertmartin, play their home matches on Tobermore's council pitch.
[edit] League success
Tobermore United F.C. won promotion to the Irish First Division in the 2004/2005 season after leap-frogging Banbridge Town F.C. on the last day of the league.
Recently Tobermore United F.C. have won the North-West Intermediate Cup on Boxing Day, 2005 and won the North-West Senior Cup 2006 against Premier League team Coleraine winning 2-1 with an injury-time winner.
[edit] Other sports
[edit] Darts
Tobermore contains only one local dart team, the Diamond Bar Dart Team. In the 2004/2005 season won the South Derry Darts 2nd Division League and South Derry 2nd Division League Cup. In the 2005/2006 season they finished third in the top league. [14]
[edit] Golf
Tobermore Golf Driving Range, was opened in 1995, and is a two tier structure containing 34 bays each containing a genuine astroturf mat with quality tees to suit. The 300 yard range is fully floodlit and is laid to simulate the characteristics of a course with realistic targets. Golf balls are available from an easy to use no-fuss dispenser. The range also has an excellant Putting Area to improve short game problems. It also offers PGA Professional tuition from Tony Mulholland and Eamon Logue. [15] [16]
[edit] Fishing
People who are interested in fishing go to the nearby River Moyola, whose stocks of salmon and trout have downsized during the last 20 years. However, this has not affected the ethusiasium of local game fishers.
[edit] Gaelic sports
Tobermore is the only large village in Magherafelt District that does not have a Gaelic Athletic Association Club [17]. Due to the fact Tobermore is almost entirely Protestant, there are next to none participants in Gaelic sports as these are predominantly played by Roman Catholics.
[edit] References
- ^ NI Amenity Council - Best Kept Award Winners History
- ^ a b c d e f g h i Ordnance Surbey Memoirs for the Parishes of Desertmartin and Kilcronaghan, Ballinascreen Historical Society. Published 1986
- ^ a b Geography Location - Ballynahone Bog
- ^ a b c d e Tobermore, The Great Well - Sperrins Community Tourism Initiative
- ^ Statistical Reports of Six Derry Parishes 1821 - Ballinascreen Historical Society. Published 1983
- ^ a b c d An Index of Deaths from the Conflict in Northern Ireland
- ^ The Beliefs of Mahatma Taylor - Danny Morrison
- ^ a b Mid-Ulster Mail 14th July 2005 Edition, Published by Morton Newspapars
- ^ a b To The Beat of the Drum, Published by the Ulster Bands Association
- ^ Union Jack Shop - Ulsters Greatest Bands Meet CD
- ^ NI Census 2001
- ^ NINIS Area Profile - Tobermore
- ^ Direct Housing Plan
- ^ Northern Ireland Darts Organisation
- ^ Golf in County Londonderry
- ^ Tobermore Golf Driving Range
- ^ List of Gaelic football clubs
