Cornice (climbing)
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- This article is about the snow formation. For the architectural use, see cornice.
In climbing, a cornice is an overhanging edge of snow on a ridge or the crest of a mountain which are built up by drifting snow. Cornices are extremely dangerous and should never be walked on or under without adequate protection, or if other options are either not available or are more hazardous.
When a cornice collapses, it breaks in from the cornice to the top of the peak; even being on the snow on top of rock exposes you to hazard in this situation. The best practise in mountaineering is to stay far enough back from the edge so as not to be able to see the drop, as an approximate metric of exposure. Of course, this is not always possible. A good test for safety (in sunny weather) is to insert an ice axe and see if a blue glow comes out the hole. This indicates the ice is being lit from underneath, and that the climber should retreat to a safer location.
