Dougal Haston
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Dougal Haston (1940-1977) was a Scottish mountaineer born in Currie, Edinburgh.
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[edit] Climbing achievements
In 1970, with Don Whillans, he was the first to climb the south face of Annapurna on an expedition led by Chris Bonington and in 1975, with Doug Scott, he was the first to climb Mount Everest by the south-west face, also on an expedition led by Bonington. His memorial in Edinburgh mistakenly claims he was the first Briton to climb the north face of the Eiger. In fact, this honour went to Bonington and Ian Clough in 1962, but Haston was the first Briton to climb the Nordwand by the direttissima, or most direct route, on the first attempt in 1966 with the American John Harlin.
[edit] Fatal accident
Later, he became director of the International Climbing School at Leysin, where he was killed by an avalanche while skiing alone on the North-East face of La Riondaz to the Col Luisset. Sadly, it seems that he had been choked by his own scarf. He is buried at Leysin.
[edit] Quotes
"In winter, the mountains seem to regain their primitive, virginal pride, and no more do the howling, littering summer masses tramp their more accessible slopes." — Dougal Haston quoted in Jeff Connors' biography (p 104)
"...that most impenetrable of big walls, the mind of Dougal Haston." — from a review of Connors' biography.[1]
[edit] Bibliography
- Haston, Dougal (1972). In High Places. London: Cassell. ISBN 0304290734.
- Haston, Dougal (1974). The Eiger. London: Cassell. ISBN 0304293733.
- Haston, Dougal (1979). Calculated Risk. London: Diadem Books. ISBN 0906371457.
- Connor, Jeff (2002). Douglas Haston: The Philosophy of Risk. Edinburgh: Canongate Books. ISBN 1-84195-215-X.
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