Ice climbing

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Ice Climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, though, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. Ice climbing is broadly divided into two spheres, alpine ice and water ice. Alpine ice is found in a mountain environment, usually requires an approach to reach, and is often climbed in an attempt to summit a mountain. Water ice usually found in cliff or other outcroppings beneath water flows. Alpine ice is frozen precipitation whereas water ice is a frozen liquid flow of water. Both types of Ice are incredibly variable under different conditions. Ice can be soft, hard, brittle or tough¹.

1 Ice Climbing Techniques
2 Protecting Ice
3 Climbing clubs
4 External links
5 Reference
6 Footnotes

[edit] Ice Climbing Techniques

Top-roping

Depending on the slope and texture of the ice, different equipment and techniques can be employed by the climber. For example, on flat ice, almost any good hiking or mountaineering boot will usually suffice, but for serious ice climbing double plastic mountaineering boots (or their older stiff leather equivalent) are usually used, which must be crampon compatible and stiff enough to support the climber and maintain ankle support. On short, low angled slopes, one can use an ice axe to chop steps. For longer and steeper slopes or glacier travel, crampons are mandatory for a safe climb. Vertical ice climbing is done with crampons and ice axes (those specific to vertical ice generally being called ice tools); the climber kicks his legs to engage the front points of the crampons in the ice, and then swings the axe into the ice above his head. This technique is known as front pointing. The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the axe only goes in a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on. If the climber is leading, he will need to place ice screws as protection on his way up (see climbing system).Most mountaineers would only consider the last scenario true ice climbing; the less steep variations are routine aspects of winter mountaineering.

Some of the important techniques and practices common in rock climbing that are employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. Beginners should need to learn these techniques before attempting to ice climb. It is highly recommended to acquire knowledge from the experts and experienced ice climbers.

Rope Systems

Single, twin, and double rope are the three main rope systems used in ice climbing. The single rope system, which is suited for straight climbing routes, is the most commonly used system in the world. Also often used in climbing is the double rope system which is a more flexible system than the single rope system. Lastly, the twin rope system, which uses two twin ropes in a single rope system, is used for longer multi-pitch routes. However, this type is not often used in climbing.

Tying In

Tying in entails attaching your rope to the climbing harness. This technique is a must particularly when leading a climb or belaying. The commonly used tie-in knot is the figure eight. Once you tie-in, you will create a belay loop which will contain your belay device when needed. This technique should be done properly to ensure your safety when ice climbing.

Belaying

In this climbing technique, you are going to use either running belays or fixed belays. A running belay on ice is similar to a running belay on rock or snow. The leader of the climb puts protection and clips the rope through it. The next climber puts away the protection. There should be at least two points of protection between the leader and the next climber. Fixed belays, on the other hand, require a belayer, belay anchor, and points of protection. A belay anchor is attached to a cliff in supporting a belay or toprope. In using either a running- or fixed belay, it is necessary that you have enough knowledge on boot/ice-screw belay techniques.

Leading

Leading refers to the act of leading a climb and thus, requires a leader and a follower. This ice climbing technique entails putting protection while ascending. In doing so, leading is done in sections. The leader places the protection as he climbs until he reaches the top. Then, as the second climber climbs, he removes the protection placed by the leader. When the second climber finishes, they both proceed to the second pitch.

Abseiling

Also called rappelling, abseiling uses a fixed rope to descend. This technique is not only used to go down after a climb. It can also be used when trying new climbing routes and when there is a seemingly difficult access to the start of a climb. Careful execution is important in doing abseiling. There are the possibilities of jammed ropes, ropes becoming severed after getting in contact with sharp edges, and other cases of equipment failure.

Lowering

Lowering is one of the most common methods of getting down. A belayer at the base of the vertical wall ensures that the climber is lowered safely. This climbing technique is used when going down routes where there are short, steep walls. This is also used when you want to go down faster.

These are the different techniques used in climbing activities. Keep in mind, though, that it is very crucial to learn these skills from expert climbers before attempting them yourself.

[edit] Protecting Ice

Compared with rock, ice can be difficult to protect. Today the most common protection for ice climbing is an ice screw. Ice screws are hollow tubes with sharp teeth on the front end, a hanger eye at the back to clip into, and threading around the tube. They are screwed into the ice and can provide very strong protection in solid ice². .Because of the variable nature of ice, the strength of ice screw placements can vary greatly³.

Ice climbers also use the ice itself as protection. The two most common of such techniques are the V-Thread and the ice bollard. The V-thread is a method of protection in which two tunnels are bored into the ice so that the intersect at their ends intersect forming a "V" shaped tunnel in the ice. A sling or cordelette (rope used in anchors) in threaded through the tunnel and tied making a loop that is tied into the ice. An ice bollard is a made when an horse-shoe shaped furrow is carved into less than vertical ice with the open end down. A lip is then sculpted in the lower wall of the furrow so that a loop of rope can be placed in the furrow that will stay in place in a somewhat less severeversion of a loop of rope around saddle horn⁴.

Natural formations, as well as ice hooks and ice pitons are also used as protection anchors by ice climbers.

[edit] Climbing clubs

Rock and ice climbers and mountaineers often belong to Clubs, some of which were started in the very early days of the sport. Clubs are often responsible for the publication of Climbing Guides. The article Alpine Club lists some of these organizations.

In the UK and Ireland there are several prominent clubs, including: