Puka shell
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Puka shells are pieces of a Cone Snail shell. Puka is the Hawaiian word for "hole" and refers to the naturally occurring hole in the middle of the shell fragment.
As the name implies, the shell of the Cone Snail is cone-shaped, being closed at the larger end. While the abandoned shell is tossed in the surf and coral rubble, the pointed end is ground into sand. The "puka" is formed when the minor apex of the large end is eroded by the same forces that wears off the point.
Necklaces, bracelets and anklets are a perfect use of the "shells" because they already have a hole for stringing. Puka jewelry first became popular in Hawaii though the Cone Snail is found throughout the Indo-Pacific ocean.
Puka shell jewelry used to be fairly expensive due to the labor involved in collecting enough naturally formed "shells" for a suitable string. Currently the Cone Snail shells are often harvested and other types of shells may also be used for faux puka jewelry.
Authenticity may be determined by simple observation. An overtly glossy patina indicates the shells have been tumble polished. If the edges are chipped, the shells were harvested and manually broken into shape. If the "puka" is perfectly circular, then the hole was assuredly drilled.
