Sampot
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The sampot is the national garment of Cambodia. The traditional dress is similar to those worn in the neighboring countries of Laos and Thailand, but variations do exist between each countries. The similarities can be explained by the fact that traditional Thai and Lao dress are derived from the Angkrorian-style sampot when the Khmers had immense cultural influence on Lao and Thai culture. Both Sukhothai and Ayuthaya were provinces of the Angkor empire, and Lan Xang was formed by Fa Ngum, the Lao prince that resided in the Cambodian courts who later married a daughter of the Khmer king.
Contents |
[edit] Origins
The sampot dates back to the Funan era when a Cambodian king ordered the people of his kingdom to wear the sampot at the request of Chinese envoys. Sot silk weaving have been an important part of Cambodia's cultural past. It have been documented that people from Takéo Province have woven silk since the Funan era and records, bas-relief and Zhou Daguan's report have shown that looms were used to weave sampots since ancient times. Since ancient times, women have learn highly complex methods and intricate patterns, one of such is the hol method. It involves dying patterns on silk before weaving. What remains unique to Cambodian weavers is the uneven twill technique, the reason remains unclear why they adopted such an unusual method. However, little is known about the old Khmer vocabulary for these fabrics, and if the sampot today was simply changed over time from the original Angkorian textiles. The ancient bas-reliefs however provides a complete look at how fabrics were like, down to patterns and pleats. Silk woven pieces are used as heirlooms, in weddings and funerals, and as decoration in temples.
[edit] Textiles
There are three important silk textiles in Cambodia. They included the ikat silks (chong kiet in Khmer), or hol, the twill-patterned silks and the weft ikat textiles. Patterns are made by tying vegetables and synthetic fibers on the weft threads and then it is dyed. It is repeated for different colors until the patterns firm and cloth is woven. Traditionally, five colors are used. Red, yellow, green, blue and black are the most used. The Sampot Hol is used as a lower garment and as the sampot chang kben. The Pidan Hol is used as a ceremonial hanging used for religious purposes.
[edit] Variations
There are many variation for the sampot, each is worn according to class. The typical regular sampot, known also as the sarong is typically worn by men and women of lower class. It measures approximately one and a half meters and both ends are sewn together. It is tied to safely secure it on the waist.
- The Sampot Chang Kben is the preferred choice of clothing for women of upper and middle classes for daily wear. This practice of daily wear died out in the beginning of the twentieth century. Unlike the typical Sampot, it is more of a pant than a skirt. It is a rectangular piece of cloth measuring 3 meters long and one meters wide. It is worn by wrapping it around the waist and stretched away from the body amd twisting the knot. The knot is then pulled between the legs and held by a metal belt. Regardless of class, all Cambodian womens wear the Sampot Chang Kben on special events. Men also wear the it, but the traditional patterns depend on gender. The Sampot Chang Kben is adopted in Thailand and Laos, where it is known as kraben. It dates to the to ancient Cambodia where deities often wear such styles.
- The Sampot Pamung are many different variation of traditional Khmer textiles. They are single colored and twill woven. There are currently 52 colors used in Sampot Pamung. The Pamung Chorabap is an luxurious fabric using up to 22 needles to create. Pamung variation are rabak, chorcung, anlounh, kaneiv and bantok. It usually uses floral and geometrical motifs. The most valued silk used to create the Pamung is Cambodian yellow silk, known for its fine quality in the region. New designs draw inspires from ancient patterns from old silk.
- The Sampot Hoi is a typical traditional textile. There are two kinds of Sampot Hoi, one is a wrapping skirt thats uses a technique called chong kiet and twill weave. Influence by the Indian patola, it developed patterns and techniques over the centuries to become a genuine Khmer art style. The sampot hoi has over 200 patterns combined with three to five colors, yellow, red, brown, blue, and green. There are four variations, sampot hoi, sampot hoi por, sampot hoi kben and sampot hoi ktong. Patterns are usually geometric motifs, animals, and flower motifs.
[edit] In daily life
The Sampot is deeply rooted in Cambodia. Even though the French brought a degree of westernization to Cambodia, Cambodians continued to wear the Sampot. Royalty and government officials used the sampot chang kben with a formal jacket. The sampot chan kben and sampot pamung are still worn by Cambodians today during special occasions, and rural and poor Khmers still prefer it over western style clothing for its comfort. The material used by poor and rural Cambodians are not hand-woven silk but printed batik-patterned cloth imported from Indonesia. It is still popular with both men and women alike and is regarded by the people of Cambodia as their national garment.
[edit] References
- http://www.camnet.com.kh/cambodia.daily/selected_features/color.htm
- http://www.bookrags.com/research/clothing-traditionalcambodia-ema-02/
- http://www.mcfa.gov.kh/Artisan_Skills/silk_weaving.php
- Traditional Textiles of Cambodia Gillian Green
