Grand Teton

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Grand Teton
Grand Teton in Winter
Elevation	13,770 feet (4,197 m)
Location	Wyoming, USA
Range	Teton Range
Prominence	6,530 feet (1,990 m)
Coordinates	43°44′28″N, 110°48′06″W
Topo map	USGS Grand Teton
First ascent	1898 by William O. Owen and party
Easiest route	Owen-Spalding Route Class 5.5

Grand Teton is the highest mountain within Grand Teton National Park, and the second highest in the U.S. state of Wyoming.

The origin of the name is controversial. The most common explanation is that "Grand Teton" means "large teat" in French, named by either French-Canadian or Iroquois members of an expedition led by Donald McKenzie of the Northwest Company.^[1]However, other historians disagree, and claim that the mountain was named after the Teton Sioux tribe of Native Americans.^[2]

There is a controversy over who made the first ascent of Grand Teton. Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson claimed to reach the summit on July 29, 1872. However, their description and sketches match the summit of The Enclosure: side peak of Grand Teton. The Enclosure is named after a man-made palisade of rocks on its summit, probably constructed by Native Americans. When William O. Owen climbed the true summit, he found no trace of prior human passage. Therefore, The Enclosure was probably first climbed by Native Americans, and the true summit was first climbed by William Owen.^[3]

[edit] Climbing routes

Grand Teton can be climbed with minimal gear via the Owen-Spalding route (5.5). However, it is highly exposed and experience is recommended. The Owen-Spalding route is named after the climbers who made the first claimed ascent: William Owen, Franklin Spalding, Frank Peterson and John Shive. There is some debate as to which person made the first ascent; however most agree this group was the first. Their route begins at the Upper Saddle which is reached by walking from Lupine Meadows Trailhead, up Garnet Canyon, to the Lower Saddle.

Another famous route up the mountain is the Exum Ridge route (5.6), a 13-pitch exposed route first climbed by Glen Exum, founder of Exum climbing guides. This route, too, can be found on the southern face of the mountain. The Owen-Spalding and Exum Ridge routes can be climbed from the base of the mountain at Lupine Meadows in one long day but the average person takes two days (a permit is required for an overnight stay in the backcountry). Routes up the northern face are more difficult but famous in the climbing world. The Grand Teton can also be skied in the winter. The first descent on skis was made by Bill Briggs in the spring of 1971; a route on the Owen-Spalding is now named in his honor.

[edit] References

^ Mattes, Merrill J. (1962). ""Le Trois Tetons": The Golden Age of Discovery, 1810-1824", Colter's Hell and Jackson's Hole. Yellowstone Library and Museum Association.
^ Macdonald Jr., James S.. Historical Origins of Mountain Names in Yellowstone. The Magic of Yellowstone.
^ Jackson, Reynold G. (1999). "Park of the Matterhorns", in John Daugherty: A Place Called Jackson Hole. Grand Teton Natural History Association.