Northern Areas (Pakistan)
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Northern Areas | |
![]() Northern Areas |
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Regional Capital | Gilgit |
Languages | Urdu Shina Balti Wakhi Burushaski Khowar Pashto |
Area | 72,496 km² |
Population | 1,500,000 (estimated) |
Revenue & NFC - National revenue share - Received share |
% (contribution) % (from federal gov't) |
Time zone | PST, UTC +5 |
Number of Districts | 6 |
Number of Towns | 7 |
Administration | Federal Minister of States and Frontier Regions |
Northern Areas Official Website |
The Northern Areas (Urdu: شمالی علاقہ جات) or Gilgit-Baltistan is the northernmost region of Pakistani-administered Kashmir. The name 'Balawaristan' is given to the area by a regional nationalist party centred in Gilgit. The area west of the Indus River was known as the Gilgit Agency until October 1947. Though both are under Pakistani administration, the Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir are claimed by India.
Contents |
[edit] History
After the partition of India in 1947, the Hindu Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir attempted to make Jammu-Kashmir into an independent state. This was soon followed by a tribal invasion of Kashmir backed by regular Pakistani troops. Fearing the might of Pakistani Forces, Kashmir sought military help from India and in return the Maharaja agreed to accede to India. India accepted this and the Indo-Pakistani War of 1947 was fought to send Pakistani forces back. However, the war was not decisively complete and a cease fire was called in 1948. The end of the war saw India gaining most of Kashmir, including the fertile parts of it. Part of Kashmir to the west of the ceasefire line or the Line of Control, known as Northern Areas (72,496 km²) in the north and Azad Kashmir (13,300 km²) in the south, is controlled by Pakistan. A small part, the Trans-Karakoram Tract, of the Northern Areas was ceded to the People's Republic of China by Pakistan in 1963.
[edit] Subdivisions
The Northern Areas are divided into six districts[1] in three regions: the two Baltistan districts of Skardu and Ghangche, two Gilgit districts of Gilgit and Ghizer and two Diamer districts districts of Astore and Diamer, . The main political centres are the towns of Gilgit, Skardu and Chilas.
Agency | District | Area (km²) | Pop.(1998) | Headquarter |
---|---|---|---|---|
Baltistan | Ghangche | 6,400 | 88,366 | Khaplu |
Skardu | 15,000 | 214,848 | Skardu | |
Diamer | Astore | 8,657 | 71,666 | Gorikot |
Diamer | 10,936 | 131,925 | Chilas | |
Gilgit | Ghizer | 9,635 | 120,218 | Gahkuch |
Gilgit | 26,300 | 243,324 | Gilgit | |
Northern Areas | 6 districts | 69,971 | 970,347 | - |
[edit] Geography
The Northern Areas border the Wakhan corridor of Afghanistan to the northwest, the Xinjiang territory of China to the northeast, the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir to the southeast, the region of Pakistani-administered Azad Kashmir to the southeast and the North-West Frontier Province to the west.
The region is home to some of the world's highest mountain ranges — the main ranges are the Karakoram and the western Himalayas. The Pamir mountains are to the north, and the Hindu Kush lies to the west. Amongst the highest mountains are K2 and Nanga Parbat, one of the most feared mountains in the world.
[edit] Climate
The climate of the Northern Areas varies from region to region. There are towns like Gilgit and Chilas that are very hot during the day in summers, yet cold at nights, and valleys like Astore, Khaplu, Yasin, Hunza and Nagar where the temperatures are cold even in summers.
[edit] Sites of Interest
The Northern Areas are a major destination for foreign tourists especially for serious mountaineers because it is home to five of the eight-thousanders and more than fifty peaks above 7000m. Gilgit and Skardu are the two main hubs for all expeditions to these mountains.
[edit] Mountains and glaciers
Five of the Eight-thousander (above 8,000m) peaks of the world are in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. Three of the world's seven longest glaciers outside the polar regions are also in Northern Areas, the Biafo Glacier, Baltoro Glacier, and Batura Glacier.
Some of the notable peaks include:
- K2, 2nd highest of the world at 8,611m.
- Nanga Parbat, 9th highest of the world at 8,125m
- Gasherbrum I, 11th highest of the world at 8,080m.
- Broad Peak, 12th highest of the world at 8,047m.
- Gasherbrum II-IV, 13th-17th highest of the world at 8,035m-7,932m
- Masherbrum (K1), 22nd highest of the world at 7,821m.
- Rakaposhi, 27th highest of the world at 7,788m.
[edit] Lakes
There are several high altitude lakes in the Northern Areas.
- Sheosar Lake in Deosai Plains
- Satpara Lake in Skardu
- Katchura Lake in Skardu
- Borith Lake in upper Hunza
- Rama Lake near Astore
- Rush Lake near Nagar
- Kromber Lake In Kromber Pass
[edit] Deosai Plains
Deosai Plains is located above the tree line, the second highest plains of the world at 4,115 m (13,500 feet) are in the South of Skardu and in the East of the Astore Valley. The area was declared as a National Park in 1993. The Deosai Plains cover an area of almost 3,000 square kilometers. For just over half the year (between November and May), Deosai is snow-bound.
[edit] Rock art and petroglyphs
There are more than 20,000 pieces of rock art and petroglyphs all along the Karakoram Highway in Northern Areas of Pakistan that are conentrated at ten major sites between Hunza and Shatial. The carvings were left by various invaders, traders and pilgrims who passed along the trade route, as well as by locals. The earliest date back to between 5000 and 1000 BCE, showing single animals, triangular men and hunting sccenes in which the animals are larger than the hunters. These carvings were pecked into the rock with stone tools and are covered with a thick patina that proves their age. The archaeologist Karl Jettmar has pieced together the history of the area from various inscriptions and recorded his findings in Rockcarvings and Inscriptions in the Northern Areas of Pakistan and the later released Between Gandhara and the Silk Roads - Rock carvings Along the Karakoram Highway.[citation needed]
[edit] Transportation
[edit] Road transport
The Karakoram Highway (KKH) connects Islamabad to Gilgit and Skardu, which are the two major hubs for mountaineering expeditions in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. The journey from Islamabad to Gilgit takes approximately 20-24 hours. Landslides on Karakoram Highway are not uncommon, but bulldozers usually clear the road in little time. KKH connects Gilgit to Taxkurgan and Kashghar in Xinjiang, China via Sust (the customs and health inspection post on Pakistan side) and Khunjerab Pass, the highest paved international border crossing in the world at 4,693 metres (15,397 feet).
NATCO (Northern Areas Transport Corporation) offers bus and jeep transport service to the two hubs and several other popular destinations, lakes and glaciers in the area.
[edit] Commuter service between Gilgit and Kashghar
In March 2006, the respective governments announced that, commencing on June 1, 2006, a thrice weekly bus service would begin across the boundary from Gilgit, Pakistan to Kashghar, China and road widening work would begin on 600 kilometers of the Karakoram Highway. There would also be one daily bus in each direction between the Sust and Tashkorgan border areas of the two countries. [2]
[edit] Air transport
Pakistan International Airlines used to fly a Fokker F27 daily between Gilgit Airport and Islamabad International Airport. The flying time is approximately 50 minutes and the flight is one of the most scenic flights of the world as its route passes over Nanga Parbat and the mountain's peak is higher than the aircraft's cruising altitude. PIA also offers regular flights of Boeing 737 between Skardu and Islamabad. However, the Fokker F27 was retired after the Multan crash in 2006.
These flights, however, are subject to the clearance of weather and in winters, flights are often delayed by several days.
[edit] Demographics
The population consists of many diverse linguistic, ethnic and religious groups due in part to the many isolated valleys separated by some of the world's highest mountains. Urdu is the lingua franca of the region, understood by most inhabitants. The Shina language (with several dialects) is the language of 40% of the population, spoken mainly in Gilgit, throughout Diamer, and some parts of Ghizer. The Balti language, a sub-dialect of Ladakhi and part of Tibetan language group is spoken by the population of Baltistan. Minor languages spoken in the area include Wakhi spoken in upper Hunza, and some villages in Ghizer, while Khowar is the major language of Ghizer. Burushaski is an isolated language spoken in Hunza, Nagar, Yasin (where Khowar is also spoken), some parts of Gilgit and some villages of Punyal. Another interesting language is Domaaki, spoken by the musician clans of the region. A sizeable minority also speaks pashto.
At the last census (1998), the population of the Northern Areas was 870,347. [3] Approximately 14% of the population was urban. [4]
[edit] Recent history
The region comprised many small states, ruled by hereditary Mirs (in Hunza and Nagar) or Raas (in Gilgit). Some parts of the region were invaded by Kashmir and nominally the states were governed as a part of Kashmir for many years. Locally, this association with Kashmir is disputed by some who regard themselves as being distinct from Kashmiris, while others choosing to identify themselves as Kashmiris. There is also some support for the region to become a province of Pakistan, separately from Kashmiri regions. The region's lack of representation in the Pakistani Parliament has placed it outside the mainstream politics of the country and is a major cause of frustration to the local population. Unlike Azad Kashmir, the Northern Areas are governed directly by Pakistan as a de facto federal dependency.
[edit] Ancient history
The southern route of the ancient Silk Road passes through the area, travelled by merchants from many far-off places who may have stopped here and inter-married with the locals. It had long been speculated that the relatively fair-skinned and, in places, light-haired people of the area were descendants of the Greeks who, beginning with the soldiers of Alexander the Great, and continuing in the Greco-Buddhist period, settled in the region (see Greco-Bactrian and Indo-Greek). However, recent DNA analysis has failed to find any evidence of Greek ancestry. It is now thought that much of the population is descended from various aboriginal peoples as well as the descendants of Indo-Iranian tribes and the possible Tocharian-speaking Yuezhi people from Gansu, who ruled the region during the Kushan era.
[edit] The Kashmir dispute
India does not recognise the Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir as part of Pakistan and refers to them as "Pakistan Occupied Kashmir (PoK)". Pakistan's position is to hold a plebiscite in Kashmir to determine the will of the people, according to the three resolutions of the UN Security Council and the United Nations Commission. The promised plebiscite however, has never been held in the region due to the failure of Pakistan to pull back it's troops and vacate its part of Kashmir which was a precondition for the plebiscite to be held.
Jammu and Kashmir was a princely state with a Muslim majority ruled by a Hindu Maharaja Hari Singh until 1947. In 1947, when the Indian subcontinent achieved independence from United Kingdom, Hari Singh initially sought to be independent of India or Pakistan. Soon after the independence, Pashtun tribesmen from Pakistan's North Western Frontier Province invaded the then independent state of Jammu & Kashmir. With no defence forces and a deteriorating human rights condition, the Maharaja turned to India for military assistance. India's then Governor-General, Lord Mountbatten, favored the state's accession to India, to which the Maharaja agreed. After the Instrument of Accession was signed, the National Conference's Sheikh Abdullah became the head of the Kashmir State government. By January 1948, Pakistan, immediately contested the accession and invaded Kashmir. After months of intense fighting, both the nations agreed on a cease-fire, separating the region into two: Indian-administered Kashmir and Pakistani-administered Kashmir. In 1962, China fought a war with India and occupied the disputed north-eastern part of the Kashmir region known as Aksai Chin, which India claims to be its integral part.
Ever since, a bitter enmity has been developed between India and Pakistan. The two countries have been to war twice over Kashmir (1947-1949, 1965), and clashed there again during the Kargil Conflict of 1999. The region remains one of the most heavily militarised zones in the world. The de facto situation, as of 2007, is that Pakistan controls the western third, India controls much of the rest apart from two small regions occupied by China.
[edit] Notes
- ^ Wrangling over new Astore district headquarters (HTML). Dawn Newspaper Internet Edition. Retrieved on November 17, 2006.
- ^ Kashghar-Gilgit bus service planned (HTML). Dawn Newspaper Internet Edition. Retrieved on November 17, 2006.
- ^ Administrative Division and Population of the Northern Areas (1998) (HTML). Northern Areas Management Information System. Retrieved on November 17, 2006.
- ^ Population, poverty and environment (PDF). Northern Areas Strategy for Sustainable Development. Retrieved on November 17, 2006.
- Pakistan Trekking Guide, by Isobel and Ben Shaw, 1993.
[edit] See also
- www.gojal.net
- Karakoram
- Karakoram Highway
- Indus River
- List of mountains in Pakistan
- Kargil War
- Northern Light Infantry
- Balawaristan
- List of topics on the land and the people of “Jammu and Kashmir”
[edit] Image Gallery
[edit] Mountains
Nanga Parbat (8,125m) from Deosai Plains |
Broad Peak (8,047m) from Concordia |
Gasherbrum II (8,035m) |
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Masherbrum (7,821m), Karakoram |
Rakaposhi (7,788m) from Taghafari base camp |
Morning light on Rakaposhi |
Muztagh Tower (7,273m) |
Reflection of Diran Peak from Taghafari base camp |
Laila Peak (Hushe Valley) (6,096 or 6,614m) |
Trango Towers (6,286m), Baltoro Muztagh |
[edit] Towns
An afternoon view of Gilgit, the capital of Northern Areas |
A view of Skardu Town from the Skardu Fort |
Baltit Fort in Hunza |
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Entrance to the Skardu Fort |
Phandar Valley on the way to Shandur Pass |
[edit] Lakes
Satpara Lake, Skardu, in 2002 |
[edit] External links
- Official
- Northern Areas Government website
- Northern Areas Development Gateway
- Northern Areas tourism
- Impact of the 2005 earthquake on the Northern Areas
- Other
- Blankonthemap The Northern Kashmir WebSite
- Gojal Valley(Uper Hunza)
- Mountain Areas Conservancy Project
- Snow Leopard Conservancy
- Blankonthemap - Northern Kashmir WebSite
- Articles
- Photographs by Waqas Usman
- BBC article entitled 'Pakistan's Northern Areas dilemma'
- Dawn.com article entitled 'And when the tourists come'
- Dawn.com article entitled 'In search of identity'
- Daily Times article entitled 'Not 'Mir of Hunza
- Paknews.com article entitled 'Pakistan's Northern Areas'
- Monitor.net article entitled 'Northern Pakistan's Karakoram & Hindu Kush Mountains'
- Maps
- High-detail map of Northern Pakistan by John Callaman
- Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth
Administrative Divisions of Northern Areas (Pakistan) | ![]() |
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Capital | Gilgit | |
Districts | Astore | Diamer | Ghangche | Ghizer | Gilgit | Skardu |