Jammu and Kashmir

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This article details only the area administered by India. For the full region see Kashmir region

Jammu and Kashmir
Capital  - Coordinates	Jammu  - 33.45° N 76.24° E
Largest city	Srinagar
Population (2001)  - Density	10,069,917 (18th)  - 45.31/km²
Area  - Districts	222,236 km² (6)  - 14
Time zone	IST (UTC+5:30)
Establishment  - Governor  - Chief Minister  - Legislature (seats)	1947-10-26  - S.K. Sinha  - Ghulam Nabi Azad  - Bicameral (89 + 36)
Official language(s)	Kashmiri (Koshur), Urdu
Abbreviation (ISO)	IN-JK
Website: jammukashmir.nic.in
† Jammu is the winter capital

Jammu and Kashmir pronunciation (help·info) (IPA: /dʒəmmuː ənd kəʃmiːr/, Kashmiri:ज्वम त॒ कॅशीर جۄم تٕہ کٔشِیر, Urdu:جموں و کشمیر) (often abbreviated as Kashmir), is the northern-most state of India, lying mostly in the Himalayan mountains. Jammu and Kashmir shares a border with Himachal Pradesh to the south, Pakistan to the north and west and People's Republic of China to the north-east and east.

Jammu and Kashmir consists of three divisions: Jammu, the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh. Srinagar is its summer capital, and Jammu its winter capital. The Kashmir Valley is famous for its beautiful mountainous landscape; Jammu, attracts tens of thousands of Hindu and Muslim pilgrims every year; and Ladakh, also known as "Little Tibet", is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and Buddhist culture. Though Islam is practiced by 70% of population (and 95% of the population in the Kashmir Valley), the state has vibrant communities of Hindus (who constitute 66% of the population in Jammu), Buddhists (who constitute 50% of the population in Ladhakh), and Sikhs.

[edit] History

Main article: History of Kashmir

The Vale of Kashmir was once the great lake Satisar. According to Hindu texts, Hindu sage Kashyapa drained a lake lying north of the Pir Panjal range by cutting the mountain near Varamulla. The sage then encouraged people from India to settle in the valley that was formed after the lake was drained. The locals named the valley Kashyap-Mar and Kashyap-Pura in honour of the sage. The name Kashmir is derived from ka (the water) and shimeera (to desiccate). In other words, the word Kashmir implies land desiccated from water.

The Kashmir valley was first incorporated into the Maurya Empire and then into the Kushan Empire. In the early 8th century, Kashmir became the center of Hindu warrior Lalitaditya Muktapida's empire spanning much of northern India and Central Asia. Islam arrived in the region through traders and missionaries. Sufi saint Bulbul Shah helped spread Islam across Kashmir. In 1327 A.D., the ruler of Kashmir, Rinchen Shah converted to Islam which gave birth to a series of Muslim dynasties that would rule Kashmir for centuries to come. In 1586 A.D., Mughal Emperor Akbar invaded Kashmir. Led by Hindu King Bhagawant Das and his aide Ramchandra I, the Mughal army easily defeated Yusuf Khan of Kashmir. After the battle, Akbar appointed Ramchandra I as the governor of the Himalayan kingdom. Ramchandra I founded the city of Jammu (named after Hindu goddess Jamwa Mata) south of the Pir Panjal range.

1909 Map of the Princely State of Kashmir and Jammu. The names of different regions, important cities, rivers, and mountains are underlined in red.

Portrait of Maharaja Gulab Singh in 1847, a year after signing the Treaty of Amritsar, when he became Maharaja by purchasing the territories of Kashmir east of the Indus and west of the Ravi for 75 lakhs rupees from the British (Artist: James Duffield Harding).

In 1780, after the death of Ranjit Deo, the Raja of Jammu, the kingdom of Jammu was captured by the Sikhs under Ranjit Singh of Lahore and afterwards, until 1846, became a tributary to the Sikh power.^[1] Ranjit Deo's grand-nephew, Gulab Singh, subsequently sought service at the court of Ranjit Singh, distinguished himself in later wars, and was created Raja of Jammu in 1820. With the help of his able officer, Zorawar Singh, Gulab Singh soon captured Ladakh and Baltistan, regions to the east and north-east of Kashmir.^[1] In 1845, the First Anglo-Sikh War broke out, and Gulab Singh "contrived to hold himself aloof till the battle of Sobraon (1846), when he appeared as a useful mediator and the trusted advisor of Sir Henry Lawrence. Two treaties were concluded. By the first the State of Lahore (i.e. West Punjab) handed over to the British, as equivalent for (rupees) one crore of indemnity, the hill countries between Beas and Indus; by the second the British made over to Gulab Singh for (Rupees) 75 lakhs all the hilly or mountainous country situated to the east of Indus and west of Ravi" (i.e. the Vale of Kashmir).^[1] Soon after Gulab Singh's death in 1857, his son, Ranbir Singh, added the emirates of Hunza, Gilgit and Nagar to the kingdom.

Ranbir Singh's grandson Hari Singh, who had ascended the throne of Kashmir in 1925, was the reigning monarch in 1947 at the conclusion of British rule in the subcontinent. As a part of the of the partition process, both countries had agreed that the rulers of princely states would be given the right to opt for either Pakistan or India or—in special cases—to remain independent. In 1947, Kashmir's population "was 77 per cent Muslim and it shared a boundary with Pakistan. Hence, it was anticipated that the Maharaja would accede to Pakistan, when the British paramountcy ended on 14-15 August. When he hesitated to do this, Pakistan launched a guerilla onslaught meant to frighten its ruler into submission. Instead the Maharaja appealed to Mountbatten^[2] for assistance, and the Governor-General agreed on the condition that the ruler accede to India."^[3] Once the papers of accession to India were signed, "Indian soldiers entered Kashmir and drove the Pakistani-sponsored irregulars from all but a small section of the state. The United Nations was then invited to mediate the quarrel. The UN mission insisted that the opinion of Kashmiris must be ascertained, while India insisted that no referandum could occur until all of the state had been cleared of irregulars."^[3]

In the last days of 1948, a ceasefire was agreed under UN auspices; however, since the plebiscite demanded by the UN was never conducted, relations between India and Pakistan soured,^[3] and eventually led to two more wars over Kashmir in 1965 and 1999. India has control of about half the area of the former princely state of Jammu and Kashmir; Pakistan controls a third of the region, the Northern Areas and Azad Kashmir. According to Encyclopaedia Britannica, "Although there was a clear Muslim majority in Kashmir before the 1947 partition and its economic, cultural, and geographic contiguity with the Muslim-majority area of the Punjab (in Pakistan) could be convincingly demonstrated, the political developments during and after the partition resulted in a division of the region. Pakistan was left with territory that, although basically Muslim in character, was thinly populated, relatively inaccessible, and economically underdeveloped. The largest Muslim group, situated in the Vale of Kashmir and estimated to number more than half the population of the entire region, lay in Indian-administered territory, with its former outlets via the Jhelum valley route blocked."^[4]

The eastern region of the erstwhile princely state of Kashmir has also been beset with a boundary dispute. In the late 19th- and early 20th centuries, although some boundary agreements were signed between Great Britain, Afghanistan and Russia over the northern borders of Kashmir, China never accepted these agreements, and the official Chinese position did not change with the communist takeover in 1949. By the mid-1950s the Chinese army had entered the north-east portion of Ladakh.^[4] : "By 1956–57 they had completed a military road through the Aksai Chin area to provide better communication between Xinjiang and western Tibet. India's belated discovery of this road led to border clashes between the two countries that culminated in the Sino-Indian war of October 1962."^[4] China has occupied Aksai Chin since 1962 and, in addition, an adjoining region, the Trans-Karakoram Tract was ceded by Pakistan to China in 1965.

Since the 1990s, the state has been hit by confrontation between militant separatists and Indian Armed Forces, which has resulted in the deaths of thousands of people. The Indian army maintains a significant deployment of troops in Jammu and Kashmir to maintain law and order.

[edit] Government

Flag of Jammu and Kashmir

Like all the states of India, Jammu and Kashmir has a multi-party democratic system of governance. Main political parties include the Jammu & Kashmir National Conference, the Indian National Congress and the Jammu and Kashmir People's Democratic Party (PDP). Presently, the Indian National Congress and its ally PDP hold the maximum number of seats in the Jammu and Kashmir state assembly. Congress leader Ghulam Nabi Azad replaced PDP's Mufti Mohammed Sayeed as the Chief Minister of Jammu and Kashmir in late 2002.

The Constitution of India grants Jammu and Kashmir special autonomous status as a temporary provision. However, some Kashmiri political parties demand greater autonomy and sovereignty.

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[edit] Geography and climate

Landscape in Ladakh

Jammu and Kashmir can be divided into four major geographical regions: the Shivalik range, the Kashmir valley and the surrounding Himalayas, the Pir Panjal range and the Indus river basin comprising of Leh and Kargil. Major mountain ranges include the Pir Panjal range, the Himalayas, the Zanskar range, Karakoram range, the Nun Kun range and the Shivalik range.

Jammu and Kashmir is home to several low-lying valleys such as like the Kashmir valley, Tawi valley, Chenab valley, Poonch valley, Sind valley and Lidder valley. The main Kashmir valley is 100 km wide and 15,520.3 km² in area. The Himalayas divide the Kashmir valley from Ladakh while the Pir Panjal range, which encloses the Valley from the west and the south, separates it from the Great Plains of northern India. Along the northeastern flank of the Valley runs the main range of the Himalayas. This densely settled and beautiful valley has an average height of 1,850 meters above sea-level but the surrounding Pir Panjal range has an average elevation of 5,000 meters.

River Jhelum is the only major Himalayan river which flows through the Kashmir valley. River Indus, Tawi, Ravi and Chenab are the major rivers flowing through the state. Jammu and Kashmir is home to several Himalayan glaciers. With an average altitude of 5753 meters above sea-level, the Siachen Glacier is 70 kms long making it the longest Himalayan glacier.

The climate of Jammu and Kashmir varies greatly owing to its rugged topography. In the south around Jammu, the climate is typically monsoonal, though the region is sufficiently far west to average 40 to 50 mm (1.6 to 2 inches) of rain per months between January and March. In the hot season, Jammu city is very hot and can reahc up to 40°C (104°F) whilst in July and August, very heavy though erratic rainfall occurs with monthly extremes of up to 650 millimetres (25.5 inches). In September, rainfall declines, and by October conditions are hot but extremely dry, with minimal rainfall and temperatures of around 29°C (84°F).

Across from the Pir Panjal range, the South Asian monsoon is no longer a factor and most precipitation falls in the spring from southwest cloudbands. Because of its closeness to the Arabian Sea, Srinagar receives as much as 25 inches (635 millimetres) of rain from this source, with the wettest months being March to May with around 85 millimetres (3.3 inches) per month. Across from the main Himalaya Range, even the southwest cloudbands break up and the climate of Ladakh and Zanskar is extremely dry and cold. Annual precipitation is only around 100 mm (4 inches) per year and humidity is very low. This region, almost all above 3,000 metres (9,850 feet) above sea level and winters are extremely cold. In Zanskar, the average January temperature is -20°C (-4°F) with extremes as low as -40°C (-40°F). All the rivers freeze over and locals actually do river crossings during this period because their high levels from glacier melt in summer inhibits crossing. In summer in Ladakh and Zanskar, days are typically a warm 20°C (68°F) but with the low humidity and thin air nights can still be cold.

[edit] Economy

Jammu and Kashmir's mountainous landscape and extreme weather conditions has made construction of highways across the state extremely difficult. Shown here is a roadside truck stop in Ladakh.

Jammu and Kashmir's economy is mostly dependent on farming and animal husbandry. Though small, the manufacturing and services sector is growing rapidly. In recent years, several consumer goods companies have opened manufacturing units in the region. Before insurgency intensified in 1989, tourism formed an important part of the Kashmiri economy. The tourism economy in the Kashmir valley was worst hit. However, Jammu and Ladakh continue to remain as popular tourist destinations. Wood from Kashmir is also used to make high-quality cricket bats, popularly known as Kashmir Willow. Kashmiri saffron is also very famous and brings the state a handsome amount of foreign exchange. Only one S&P CNX 500 conglomerate, the Jammu and Kashmir Bank, has its corporate office in the state. It reported a gross income of 18,394 million INR for 2005.

Jammu and Kashmir has reaped the benefits of the recent surge in India's economy. In 2006, the state's gross domestic product rose to 12 billion USD in current prices. Below is a chart of trend of gross state domestic product of Jammu and Kashmir at market prices estimated by Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation with figures in millions of Indian Rupees.

[edit] Demographics

Map showing the prevailing religions in the north-western portion of British India, based on the census of 1901. The region of Kashmir had a 77% Muslim majority.

Jammu and Kashmir is the only state in India that has a Muslim majority population. Though Islam is practiced by over 70% of the population of the state and by 95% of the population of the Kashmir valley,^[5] the state has large and vibrant communities of Buddhists, Hindus and Sikhs. In Jammu, Hindus constitute 66% of the population and Muslims approximately 30%; In Ladakh, Buddhists constitute a little over 50% of the population, the remaining being Muslims. The people of Ladakh are of Indo-Tibetan origin, while the southern area of Jammu includes many communities tracing their ancestry to the nearby Indian states of Haryana and Punjab, as well as the city of Delhi.^{[citation needed]}

In the 1901 Census of the British Indian Empire, the population of the princely state of Kashmir was 2,905,578. Of these 2,154,695 were Muslims, 689,073 Hindus, 25,828 Sikhs, and 35,047 Buddhists. The Hindus were found mainly in Jammu, where they constituted a little less than 50% of the population.^[6] In the Kashmir Valley, the Hindus represented "only 524 in every 10,000 of the population (i.e. 5.24%), and in the frontier wazarats of Ladhakh and Gilgit only 94 out of every 10,000 persons (0.94%)."^[6] In the same Census of 1901, in the Kashmir Valley, the total population was recorded to be 1,157,394, of which the Muslim population was 1,083,766, or 93.6% of the population.^[6] These percentages have remained fairly stable for the last 100 years.^[7] In the 1941 Census of British India, Muslims accounted for 93.6% of the population of the Kashmir Valley and the Hindus constituted 4%.^[7] In 2003, the percentage of Muslims in the Kashmir Valley was 95%^[5] and those of Hindus 4%; the same year, in Jammu, the percentage of Hindus was 66% and those of Muslims 30%.^[5]

In the same Census of 1901, four divisions were recorded among the Muslims of the princely state: Shaikhs, Saiyids, Mughals, and Pathans. The Shaikhs were the most numerous, with clan names (known as krams) including "Tantre," "Shaikh," "Mantu," "Ganai," "Dar," "Damar," "Lon" etc.^[6] The Saiyids, it was recorded "could be divided into those who follow the profession of religion and those who have taken to agriculture and other pursuits. Their kram name is "Mir." While a Saiyid retains his saintly profession Mir is a prefix; if he has taken to agriculture, Mir is an affix to his name."^[6] The Mughals who were not numerous were recorded to have kram names like "Mir" (a corruption of "Mirza"), "Beg," "Bandi," "Bach," and "Ashaye." Finally, it was recorded that the Pathans "who are more numerous than the Mughals, ... are found chiefly in the south-west of the valley, where Pathan colonies have from time to time been founded. The most interesting of these colonies is that of Kuki-Khel Afridis at Dranghaihama, who retain all the old customs and speak Pashtu."^[6]

The Hindu population of Kashmir Valley in 1901 was recorded to be 60,641.^[6] Among the Hindus of Jammu province, who numbered 626,177 (or 90.87% of the Hindu population of the princely state), the most important castes recorded in the census were "Brahmans (186,000), the Rajputs (167,000), the Khattris (48,000) and the Thakkars (93,000)."^[6]

According to political scientist Alexander Evans, approximately 95% of the total population of 160,000-170,000 of Kashmir brahmins, also called Kashmiri Pandits, (i.e. approximately 150,000 to 160,000) left the Kashmir Valley in 1990 as militant violent engulfed the state.^[8] According to an estimate by the Central Intelligence Agency, about 300,000 Kashmiri Pandits from the entire state of Jammu and Kashmir have been internally displaced due to the ongoing violence. ^[9]

[edit] Culture

Jammu and Kashmir's culture is as diverse as its terrain. Jammu, the Vale of Kashmir and Ladakh have developed their own distinctive culture over the years. However, the lifestyle of the people from the state, irrespective of the differing religious beliefs, is slow paced.

Ladakh is famous for its unique Indo-Tibetan culture. Chanting in Sanskrit and Tibetan language forms an integral part of Ladakh's Buddhist lifestyle. Annual masked dance festivals, weaving and archery are an important part of traditional life in Ladakh. Ladakhi food has much in common with Tibetan food, the most prominent foods being Thukpa, noodle soup; and Tsampa, known in Ladakhi as Ngampe, roasted barley flour. Typical costumes include Gonchas of velvet, elaborately embroidered waistcoats and boots, and gonads or hats. People, adorned with gold and silver ornaments and turquoise headgears throng the streets during various Ladakhi festivals.

Houseboats and Shikaras are a common feature in lakes and rivers across the Kashmir valley.

The Dumhal is a famous dance in the Kashmir valley, performed by men of the Wattal region. The women perform the Rouff, another traditional folk dance. Kashmir has been noted for its fine arts for centuries, including poetry and handicrafts. Shikaras, traditional small wooden boats, and houseboats are a common feature in various lakes and rivers across the Valley. The Indian constitution does not allow people from regions other than Jammu and Kashmir to purchase land in the state. As a consequence, houseboats became popular among those who were unable to purchase land in the Valley and has now become an integral part of the Kashmiri lifestyle. Kawa, traditional green tea with spices and almond, is consumed all through the day in the chilled winter climate of Kashmir. Most of the buildings in the Valley and Ladakh are made from softwood and has Indian, Tibetan and Islamic architectural influences.

Jammu's Dogra culture and tradition is much similar to that of neighbouring Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. Traditional Punjabi festivals such as Lohri and Baisakhi are celebrated with great zeal and enthusiasm throughout the region. After Dogras, Gujjars form the second largest ethnic group in Jammu. Known for their semi-nomadic lifestyle, Gujjars are also found in vast numbers in the Kashmir valley. Similar to Gujjars, Gaddis are primarily herdsmen who hail from the Chamba region in Himachal Pradesh. Gaddis are generally associated with emotive music played on the flute. The Bakkarwalas found both in Jammu and the Vale of Kashmir are wholly nomadic pastoral people who move along the Himalayan slopes in search for pastures for their huge flocks of goat and sheep.

[edit] Districts

Jammu and Kashmir is divided into 14 districts:

Anantnag, Bagh, Baramulla, Bhimber, Budgam, Doda, Jammu, Kargil, Kathua, Kotli, Kupwara, Leh, Mirpur, Muzaffarabad, Pulwama, Poonch, Rajouri, Srinagar, Sudhnoti, Udhampur

[edit] Tourism

Muslims form 95% of the population in Kashmir Valley. Shown here is the Hazratbal Shrine in Srinagar.

Hindus form the majority of the population in Jammu. Shown here is a roadside Hindu shrine in Kashmir.

Kashmir is known as heaven on the earth. In the seventeenth century the Mughal emperor Jahangir set his eyes on the valley of Kashmir. He said that if paradise is anywhere on the earth, it is here, while living in a house boat on the mesmerizing Dal Lake. The pleasure of the Mughal gardens makes every minute one spends in Kashmir a joy to the soul. In Jammu and Kashmir the most important tourist places are Kashmir, Srinagar, Mughal gardens, Gulmarg, Pahalgam-the valley of shepherds, Jammu, Ladakh.

Because of the relatively tolerable climate on the higher planes of Jammu and Kashmir, and also because of its scenic beauty and bodies of water, Jammu and Kashmir are a tourist attraction. Until a few decades ago, "Going to Kashmir" was synonymous in India with going on a honeymoon, or for a tour to a cold place during hot summers.

Some areas require a special permit for non-indians to visit.

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[edit] Education

Until 1970 Jammu and Kashmir has its own boards and university that provide the opportunities to the residents. The education is divided into primary, middle, high secondary, college and university level. The state follows 10+2 pattern for education of children. This is handled by Jammu & Kashmir State Board of School Education(JKBOSE). Various private and public schools are recognized by the board to impart education to students. Board examinations are conducted for students in class VIII, X and XII. In addition there are various Kendriya Vidyalayas, Army schools and Sanik Schools that also impart secondary school education. These follow the CBSE pattern/sallaybus rather than JKBOSE pattern/sallaybus. The technical college level education is carried out by various colleges such as Government College of Engineering and Technology, NIT Srinagar, Government Medical College Jammu. The general education is provided by general colleges spread across various districts. University level education is provided by University of Jammu and University of Kashmir.

[edit] Notes

[edit] See also

• Terrorism in Kashmir
• Timeline of the Kashmir conflict
• Line of Control
• Azad Kashmir, an area of Kashmir administered by Pakistan
• Trans-Karakoram Tract, an area of Kashmir administered by PRC
• Aksai Chin, an area of Kashmir administered by PRC
• Indo-Pakistani Wars
• Sino-Indian War
• 2005 Kashmir earthquake
• List of Kashmiris
• Kashmir
• Kashmiriyat - a socio-cultural ethos of religious harmony and Kashmiri consciousness.
• List of political parties in the state
• List of topics on the land and the people of “Jammu and Kashmir”

[edit] External links

• Jammu and Kashmir travel guide from Wikitravel
• Jammu and Kashmir at the Open Directory Project (suggest site)
• Government of Jammu and Kashmir, India
• Independent site from conflict zone