Paul Poiret
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Paul Poiret (20 April 1879, Paris, France - 30 April 1944, Paris) was a fashion designer based in Paris before the First World War,[1] during the Belle Epoque. He was taken on by the fashion designer Jacques Doucet as a draftsman. When he completed his apprenticeship with the House of Worth in 1904 he opened up his own fashion house, and by 1905-07 had produced a revolutionary style.
He was famous for designing luxurious oriental and Art Deco gowns. He also launched the suspender belt,[1] flesh-colored stockings,[1] culottes,[1] and the modern brassiere.[citation needed] About his creation of the hobble skirt, he said, "It was in the name of Liberty that I proclaimed the fall of the corset and the adoption of the brassiere which, since then, has won the day. Yes, I freed the bust, but I shackled the legs."[2] He also presented the first sheath and sack dresses. Moreover, Poiret was noted his use of vibrant primary colors, breaking from the soft colors common during the late Edwardian period.[3] "He was the first couturier to launch his own perfume[,] named Rosine, after his oldest daughter."[1]
Poiret's signature was the rose, which was a decorative motif on his label and appeared periodically on his creations (lapels and elsewhere).[1] His rose most often designated a piece of which he was particularly proud.[citation needed] Paul Iribe, a graphic artist and jewelery designer was hired to design Poiret's label, which was a simple rose drawing accompanied by the text, "Paul Poiret a Paris."
Poiret was notorious for throwing lavish parties and plays featuring his designs.[4] For one of his famous parties, the June 24, 1911, "The Thousand and Second Night" (based on The Arabian Nights), he required his over 300 guests to dress in Oriental costuming.[4][1] Improperly-dressed guests were requested to either outfit themselves in some of Poiret's 'Persian' outfits or to leave.[1]
In 1909, Raoul Dufy was commissioned by Poiret to design stationery for the house, and also designed textile patterns used in Poiret's garments.[5]
[edit] References
- ^ a b c d e f g h Shi, Jim (Oct. 2, 2006). Costume Institute Picks Poiret. Fashion Week Daily. Retrieved on March 10, 2007.
- ^ Poiret, Paul (1931). My First Fifty Years. Victor Gollancz Ltd.
- ^ Sessums, Kevin (Mar. 2007), "Fade to White: The light and bright Marc Jacobs", Neiman Marcus catalog ("The Book"): 40-49
- ^ a b Chadwick, Whitney (June 2004). "Couture Culture: A Study in Modern Art and Fashion". Art Bulletin 86 (2). Retrieved on Mar. 10, 2007.
- ^ Hay, Susan (1999). From Paris to Providence, Fashion, Art and the Tirocchi Dressmakers' Shop, 1915-1947 ("Modernism in Fabric: Art and the Tirocchi Textiles"). Rhode Island School of Design.
