Hanbok
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
| Hanbok | |
|---|---|
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| Korean name | |
| Hangul: |
한복
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| Hanja: |
韓服
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| Revised Romanization: | Hanbok |
| McCune-Reischauer: | Hanbok |
Hanbok (한복) (South Korea) or chosŏn-ot (조선옷) (North Korea) is the traditional Korean dress. It is characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to Joseon Dynasty-style semi-formal or formal wear that is worn during traditional festivals or celebrations.
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[edit] History
Some of the basic elements of today’s hanbok, namely the shirt - jeogori and pants - baji, were probably worn at a very early date, but it was not until the Three Kingdoms period (57 BC - AD 668) that the two-piece costume of today began to evolve. Short, tight trousers and tight, waist-length jackets were worn by both men and women during the early part of the period, as evidenced by ancient tomb paintings of Goguryeo tombs. This basic structure remains relatively unchanged to this day.
Sericulture or silk production comes to Korea in 200 BC. Toward the end of the Three Kingdoms period, Tang China introduced Koreans to a new style of silk robes which were adopted for wear by royalty and officials. Noblewomen began to wear full-length skirts and wide-sleeved, hip-length jackets belted at the waist and noblemen began to wear roomy trousers bound in at the ankles and a narrow, tunic-style jacket cuffed at the wrists and belted at the waist. This tradition eventually leads to Guanbok, the traditional clothes of government officials of pre-modern Korea.
When Goryeo Dynasty (918 - 1392) became a vassal state of the Mongol Empire, Mongol fashion became influential as Goryeo kings married Mongolian queens and government officials adopted Mongol fashion. As a result of this influence, the skirt chima was shortened as was the shirt jeogori, which was hiked up above the waist and tied at the chest with a long, wide ribbon instead of belted and the sleeves were curved slightly.
In Joseon Dynasty, jeogori of women's Hanbok became gradually tightened and shortened. In the 16th century, jeogori was baggy and reached below the waste, but by the end of Joseon Dynasty in the 19th century, jeogori was shortened to the point that it could not cover the breasts, so another piece of cloth was used to cover them. Also, at the end of 19th century, Daewon-gun introduced Magoja, a Manchu-style jacket, to Korea, which is often worn with Hanbok to this day.
The upper classes wore hanbok of closely woven ramie cloth or other high-grade lightweight materials in warm weather and of plain and patterned silks the rest of the year. Commoners were restricted by law as well as resources to cotton at best. The upper classes wore a variety of colors, though bright colors were generally worn by children and young girls and subdued colors by middle-aged men and women. Commoners were restricted by law to everyday clothes of white but for special occasions they wore dull shades of pale pink, light green, gray and charcoal. Formally, when Korean men go outdoors, they're required to wear overcoat known as durumagi which comes down to knee-length.
[edit] Head dresses
Both males and females wore their hair in a long pigtail until they were married, at which time the hair was knotted-the man’s in a topknot sangtu on the top of the head and the woman’s in a ball just above the nape of the neck. A long pin, or binyeo, was thrust through the knotted hair of the woman as both a fastener and a decoration. The material and length of the binyeo varied according to the wearer’s class and status. Men wore a gat, which also varied according to class and status. Women wore a jokduri on their wedding day, and wore an ayam for protection from the cold.
[edit] Occasions
Hanbok are classified according to their purposes: everyday dress, ceremonial dress and special dress. Ceremonial dresses are worn on formal occasions, including a child's first birthday, a wedding or a funeral. Special dresses are made for shamans and officials.
Today the hanbok is still sometimes worn during formal occasions. The everyday use of the dress, however, has been lost, with a few exceptions such as at Chunghakdong, a famous anachronistic village. hi
[edit] See also
